Shocks and springs Vs coilovers

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Gaz700

Member
Messages
40
As the title,sure it's been done to death but I can never find diddly using tge search.....I'm doing a suspension refresh,done all the bushes,rack slider ect

Now ideally I'd like to just go decent shocks/maybe a slight drop but can't seem to find anyone doing kits for a dc5....so do I just opt for a set of meister/bc? Or is there an option I'm missing?
 
subtronics

subtronics

Advanced Member
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209
There are a few brands that do lowering springs (Spoon/Eibach) but chances are you will use your own shocks or new OEM ones. In my opinion you shouldn't put new lowering springs on old shocks, as it will wear them out and you'll end up replacing the shocks within a short space of time anyway. By the time you have bought lowering springs and new shocks, your not far off the price of some Meister R, Yellow Speed or BC Racing coilovers (which all come out the same factory) anyway.
So unless your looking to keep your car OEM or OEM+ then in my opinion coilovers present better value for money as you can really taylor them to how you want your car to ride.
My presonal prefferance is Tein, which I know others arn't that keen on, but I have always used them and they have never let me down. The set on my car were bought by someone who previously owned the car but have been on the car for about 8-10 years around the time the car was imported, granted they are now due for renewal, but they are worth spending a bit extra on for that money if they last that long.
 
G

Gaz700

Member
Messages
40
Can you buy the mugen showa kit anywhere? I think I'll just go coilover route for ease,is it right enough you need to change tie arms aswell?
 
k!ng

k!ng

Advanced Member
Messages
132
If you go for coilovers and lower it quite a bit you might need to change the tie rods for shorter ones, as I've found you run out of thread to adjust the toe and end up with the wheels toe'ing in. Negative camber increases toe in also. Hardrace do some shorter tie rods which I'm about to get to solve the problem.

I've also always used Tein and have just put them on so anxious to try it now.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
 
spooke

spooke

Advanced Member
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1,392
Gaz700 said:
Spot on....did you require a rack raiser?
Click to expand...
I did not use one, haven't actually measured bump steer but I'm pretty confident with the cars handling.
 
G

Gaz700

Member
Messages
40
Coils fitted,rack raiser on and all set up....handles well but I find the meisterR s quite crashy? How many clicks you running for the road? Should all 4 be the same? The dampers were set at time of geometry....but im tempted to have a mess about
 
spooke

spooke

Advanced Member
Messages
1,392
Gaz700 said:
Coils fitted,rack raiser on and all set up....handles well but I find the meisterR s quite crashy? How many clicks you running for the road? Should all 4 be the same? The dampers were set at time of geometry....but im tempted to have a mess about
Click to expand...
You can freely adjust the dampening, it won't effect the geometry. As a base setup the rear should be set higher than the front to promote turn in. I run something like 10 front, 16 rear for daily driving.
 
carl hammond

carl hammond

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3,741
Chris. said:
I'd look at something like Mugen Showa suspension if replacing OEM.
Click to expand...
Exactly this and this is what I done, Mugen Showa Shicksxwith Spoon springs and this is how it sits








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G

Gaz700

Member
Messages
40
spooke said:
You can freely adjust the dampening, it won't effect the geometry. As a base setup the rear should be set higher than the front to promote turn in. I run something like 10 front, 16 rear for daily driving.
Click to expand...
Does your meister R have a pool of red oil on the top mounts? Just noticed and not sure if it's normal or not? crap pic but you can just see it


 
spooke

spooke

Advanced Member
Messages
1,392
Gaz700 said:
Does your meister R have a pool of red oil on the top mounts? Just noticed and not sure if it's normal or not? crap pic but you can just see it
Click to expand...
Mine do not, I'm not sure where that'd come from though. Speak to Jerrick/Edwin.
 
MeisterR

MeisterR

Member
Messages
344
Just to say sometime there are residual oil trap in the damper during assembly.
Not often, but does happen sometime.

So when the damper start to operate and heat up, those residual oil get push out the top.
They are not under pressure, shouldn't be any problem.
Most leak are at the shaft seal where they are under pressure, and if the damper fail you will know it.
Normally it will make crazy hydraulic "thump" sound at every bump.

Shouldn't be any problem, but if there is let us know and we will sort you out.

Jerrick
 
G

Gaz700

Member
Messages
40
So iv kept an eye on it,never got any worse or knocked,i can only assume the chap that set up the geometry put the oil there...should the top mounts be oiled?
 
G

Gaz700

Member
Messages
40
So iv kept an eye on it,never got any worse or knocked,i can only assume the chap that set up the geometry put the oil there...should the top mounts be oiled?
 
MeisterR

MeisterR

Member
Messages
344
Gaz700 said:
So iv kept an eye on it,never got any worse or knocked,i can only assume the chap that set up the geometry put the oil there...should the top mounts be oiled?
Click to expand...
They are teflon coated so it isn't necessary.
Genreally I don't put anything on it, as if dust / dirt get stuck to the oil, it will probably do damage than good.
But then again, it isn't a major issue... I never really heard of pillow ball knocking because someone put oil on them.

Jerrick
 
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