kyle'87
Advanced Member
- Messages
- 389
Just though I would put this in here as it isn't exactly a tutorial but just some tips when fitting.
1. You'll need to cut/ dremel off the locating tips of your OEM injectors. This is because the fuel rail doesn't have the locating recess like the OE fuel rail does.
2. Once fitted put something over the fuel rail as likelihood is when you turn it on it will leak from somewhere and rather than spray up over everything it will just hit what ever you have put on top. I used blue paper towel.
3. Mine was leaking initially from the banjo bolt so I removed this and found the washer was crushed.I decided to add a second tighter washer after the one supplied which stopped the leak when I tightened it all back up. EDIT: I then replaced the crushed rubber washer with a smaller rubber washer and a copper crush washer.
4. Second leak was from further up where there was another crush washer. I eventually settled with putting in another crush washer (copper this time) to help increase the pressure from the top nut. EDIT: Using an M12 Dowty washer stopped the leak
5. I also noticed when tightening things up the best method was to leave the left bolt in and tighten the fuel line up with the right one left out. This helped when tightening the fuel line as it was slightly pinched and so lifting up between the supplied crush washer and my crush washer. Once the fuel line was tight I then secured the fuel line with the right bolt, making sure to not disturb the seal between the crush wasters.
EDIT: 6. I used an M14 Dowty washer to seal the top leak above the captive nut,
Picture below to show what and where I am referencing. Hope that helps anyone in the future.
Left and right bolts looking into the engine bay
First and second leak
EDIT: The image below shows the final configuration that I settled with using the copper washer at the fuel rail side and then an M12 and M14 dowty washer to seal around the banjo line and the top captive nut.
1. You'll need to cut/ dremel off the locating tips of your OEM injectors. This is because the fuel rail doesn't have the locating recess like the OE fuel rail does.
2. Once fitted put something over the fuel rail as likelihood is when you turn it on it will leak from somewhere and rather than spray up over everything it will just hit what ever you have put on top. I used blue paper towel.
3. Mine was leaking initially from the banjo bolt so I removed this and found the washer was crushed.
4. Second leak was from further up where there was another crush washer.
5. I also noticed when tightening things up the best method was to leave the left bolt in and tighten the fuel line up with the right one left out. This helped when tightening the fuel line as it was slightly pinched and so lifting up between the supplied crush washer and my crush washer. Once the fuel line was tight I then secured the fuel line with the right bolt, making sure to not disturb the seal between the crush wasters.
EDIT: 6. I used an M14 Dowty washer to seal the top leak above the captive nut,
Picture below to show what and where I am referencing. Hope that helps anyone in the future.
Left and right bolts looking into the engine bay
First and second leak
EDIT: The image below shows the final configuration that I settled with using the copper washer at the fuel rail side and then an M12 and M14 dowty washer to seal around the banjo line and the top captive nut.