suspension explained

C&S Evo7

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TYRE WEAR

Center Tread Wear= Over Inflation
Outside Tread Wear= Under Inflation
Feathered or Sawtooth Wear= Toe or loose steering parts
Single Shoulder Wear= Camber problem
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CAMBER

The tyre may lean towards the car, or away from the car, or it may be straight vertical. Camber is measured from a straight up (true vertical) angle. Negative is the top of the tire in, positive is the top of the tire out, and zero is straight up and down.

Why its important to have proper camber.

1. It maximizes the amount of tread in constant contact with the road surface.
2. It helps to establish the proper load point on the suspension.
3. If incorrect, it can cause a pull or lead in the car.
4. It is used with another angle to diagnose bent suspension components.

The side with the most POSITIVE camber will cause a pull if both sides arent even. If the camber is within spec but to far off both sides then it will pull.
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CASTER

Caster is to aid proper steering stability. When the top hat/mount is mounted further back then straight up its positive caster, when its mounted more forward the straight up then its negative caster. The main function of caster is directional steering stability.

Increasing caster toward positive will increase directional stability and increase steering effort. Decreasing caster will reduce directional stability and decrease steering effort.

Caster is generally not a tyre wearing angle. Caster helps stabilize the vehicle and make turning away from the straight ahead position easier or harder.

The vehicle will pull to the side with the most POSITIVE caster if there not close by generally .5degrees.
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SAI (Steering Axis Inclination)

Sai is the angle between the line going straight up and down the ball joint compared to the strut angle. SAI helps provide dynamic stability (when the vehicle is in motion) and steering wheel return.

Check SAI very carefully if there are problems with pulling or handling that normal alignment doesn't correct.

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TOE

Important: Toe is the biggest tire wearing angle of all.

For every 3mm of incorrect toe its the same as dragging the tire sideways 8.5meters for every mile.

Toe is always completed AFTER the camber and caster have been adjusted.
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Thrust Angle
Is the angle between the geometric centerline of the car, and the difference between front and rear toe. A wrong thrust angle will cause dog tragging, crooked wheel and pulling.
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An alignment should always be done this way:
Rear toe.
Rear camber.
Front Caster
Front Camber

Straighten the steering wheel with the engine running so there is no pressure in the rack. Lock the steering wheel, turn off the car then adjust toe.
 

coleyteg

Member
Messages
17
Hi,
ive had my dc5 for a couple of weeks and it noticeably puls to left when i accelerate.
I had the front wheel tracking dobne first. Thantdidnt change anything.

I then had 4 wheel alignment done (they were quite a way out) but again, that changed nothing.

The engineers at honda recommended i change all 4 tyres to original bridgestone re050's as that may be the problem (currently has some cheap crappy tyres on original rims)

So far its cost my £80 in total for alignment, with no change.

In gear and coasting the car drives and brakes in a straight line. As soon as i accelerate (slowly or quickly) it pulls hugely to the left....

Any ideas anyone?

I read the first page on the suspension, and presumed it could be the SIA?

any advice would be greatly appreciated guys

thanks
steve
 

tegg

New Member
Messages
2
can i ask where you got this info from? as there is a lot of stuff missing from what you have put up!!!!
 

C&S Evo7

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various places, web, experience etc. (one of my mates in the US has used the same format but more depth i'll try to find the link)

it was meant to be fairly simple for the normal forum user to understand a little about suspension, there are much more technical explanations available.

what do you think is missing?
if you would like to add something that you think is relevent i'll edit the original post.
 

moodyedge

Advanced Member
Messages
319
I heard the 5 feel a bit dull and heavy at the front and wondered if anybody here agrees with that and has tuned that out with any changes??? A heavier anti roll bar was one idea...

Does steering feel and feedback come from geometry alone?
 

maxvr6

Advanced Member
Messages
1,907
I found tyres can make a difference too, switching from AD08's to RE070's my steering felt a touch lighter and more responsive, not sure if the feel increased though...
 

maxvr6

Advanced Member
Messages
1,907
Agree on the slightly dull heavy feel of the front though having come from a DC2.
 

moodyedge

Advanced Member
Messages
319
maxvr6 said:
Agree on the slightly dull heavy feel of the front though having come from a DC2.
maxvr6 said:
Agree on the slightly dull heavy feel of the front though having come from a DC2.
Thats a shame...anybody know what causes that....could it be the wheels? Mayb a little heavy being 17s rather than 15 or 16s of the dc2s :?

On my previous car I had 17s and it had 15s as standard and the 17s felt shite both on braking and steering and acceleration. Just a thought.

Weighty steering isnt a bad thing but dull is not so good.

I really need to drive a 5 and see. Speculation isnt getting me anywhere.
 

maxvr6

Advanced Member
Messages
1,907
Could be, i did go from cheap cast 7j's to cheap cast 8j's so the extra weight might be part of it. I'd much rather some lightweight forged wheels but just cant find what i ideally want.
 
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