Temp gauge needle reading incorrectly?

[Mattz]

When I start the car the needle sits below the 'C'. When the car is at temp it stays as shown below and doesn't move. Heaters blow hot air after a few minutes of driving after a cold start and the needle moves up as expected, Any ideas?

 

[MilanoChris]

Could be a faulty thermostat.

 

[hondamad2204]

I would say its reading ok. Looks about the same as any other I've seen.

 

[spooke]

Not sure how the needle works but sounds like it's "dropped"? Mine sits around 84°C last time I checked and the needle sits about 2-3 more notches higher than yours.

Fyi the thermostat opens at 78°C / fully open temp 90°C and the fan switch comes on at 93°C - get it hooked up to a OBD reader and check the ECT.

 

[maxvr6]

I would say its reading ok. Looks about the same as any other I've seen.

I disagree, mine reads up to temp at almost half way up the standard gauge, this is with a Mishimoto rad and I definitely have no overheating issues, if anything my Mugen gauge reads 5-10 degrees lower than normal since installing the rad (this is sensing at the top rad hose), my fans basically never come on unless im sitting in traffic.

I recently had an issue with my B16A, it was getting warm when pottering about town but only reading a quarter way up the guage and the heater was warm but not 'hot' by any means, cruising on the motorway it would drop to just above the C mark and it would drop out of vtec. I suspected a faulty thermostat or possibly lack of one, when I whipped it out I found the inner seal was so deteriorated it was basically constantly open, I doubt it was even getting hot enough for the thermostat to open.

Could also be a faulty guage sensor i suppose, do we have a seperate guage sensor on DC5's?

Not sure how the needle works but sounds like it's "dropped"? Mine sits around 84°C last time I checked and the needle sits about 2-3 more notches higher than yours.

Fyi the thermostat opens at 78°C / fully open temp 90°C and the fan switch comes on at 93°C - get it hooked up to a OBD reader and check the ECT.

This is the best approach without having to pull the thermostat out imho

 

[Mattz]

Is it a big job replacing the thermostat? I'll get a picture when I leave work to show how the needle sits when the car is started from cold. It doesn't go any higher than where it sits in the picture above, Unfortunately I don't have an ODB reader so I wouldn't be able to easily check the temps.

 

[maxvr6]

Is it a big job replacing the thermostat? I'll get a picture when I leave work to show how the needle sits when the car is started from cold. It doesn't go any higher than where it sits in the picture above, Unfortunately I don't have an ODB reader so I wouldn't be able to easily check the temps.

I haven't changed the thermostat on a DC5 before so I couldn't say how long as im not sure what the access is like, but as long as you can access the housing its a 30 min job at most.

Having read my previous post are you experiencing anything similar?

 

[Mattz]

I haven't changed the thermostat on a DC5 before so I couldn't say how long as im not sure what the access is like, but as long as you can access the housing its a 30 min job at most.

Having read my previous post are you experiencing anything similar?

No issues apart from the needle not showing 'correctly', That's assuming it should sit in the middle when at running temperature? Heaters blow hot/cold as expected and it doesn't get hot driving around town or in traffic. I sat in traffic the day i collected the car and the fan kicked in but the needle didn't move.

 

[maxvr6]

No issues apart from the needle not showing 'correctly', That's assuming it should sit in the middle when at running temperature? Heaters blow hot/cold as expected and it doesn't get hot driving around town or in traffic. I sat in traffic the day i collected the car and the fan kicked in but the needle didn't move.

Strange, i think you have 2 options, either pull the thermostat to inspect it or get someone to do a proper diagnostic and look up the ECT.

You wont notice the needle move on the standard coolant guage, its not so much a guage, more of a 'im warming up' or a 'im up to temp' kinda thing. Interestingly when my DC5's rad crapped itself and caused the engine to overheat i didnt notice the main guage show an overheat, yet the engine management light came on and gave me the 'engine overheat condition' code, but my Mugen guage was like OMG im at 130C please stop! :lol:

 

[Mattz]

Strange, i think you have 2 options, either pull the thermostat to inspect it or get someone to do a proper diagnostic and look up the ECT.

You wont notice the needle move on the standard coolant guage, its not so much a guage, more of a 'im warming up' or a 'im up to temp' kinda thing. Interestingly when my DC5's rad crapped itself and caused the engine to overheat i didnt notice the main guage show an overheat, yet the engine management light came on and gave me the 'engine overheat condition' code, but my Mugen guage was like OMG im at 130C please stop! :lol:

That's re-assuring :xaiweb6: The last thing I want is to damage something so I'll find out what my options are asap whilst everything still has warranty. I'll get a picture of how the needle sits when I start the car as it doesn't seem right to me, Wasn't sure if it was a common DC5 'thing' though.

 

[hondamad2204]

Fair dooos, been a while since i looked at mine to be fair as bad as it sounds, but come to mention it I think mine does go to half way idh, maybe just under. In that case im not sure

 

[spooke]

Potentially the car has a low-temperature thermostat installed? Hence it running cooler? I've heard these aren't good for road use as they don't let the car heat up enough or something along those lines.

 

[maxvr6]

Potentially the car has a low-temperature thermostat installed? Hence it running cooler? I've heard these aren't good for road use as they don't let the car heat up enough or something along those lines.

You could be right, im sure plenty of people keep these cars just for track use and a low temp thermostat would make sense in that case.

 

[spooke]

When I start the car the needle sits below the 'C'. When the car is at temp it stays as shown below and doesn't move. Heaters blow hot air after a few minutes of driving after a cold start and the needle moves up as expected, Any ideas?

This is mine for reference, OEM PFL.

 

[Mattz]

So this is mine when I start the car:

 

[spooke]

So this is mine when I start the car:

Hmm that's doesn't look right, have you spoken to TorqueGT yet? Try and get a OBD reader on it as it will help you see if the temperature/coolant is ok.

 

[Mattz]

Hmm that's doesn't look right, have you spoken to TorqueGT yet? Try and get a OBD reader on it as it will help you see if the temperature/coolant is ok.

I'll give them a call tomorrow and see what they say, I might be able to get an obd on it this weekend but until then I'll just poodle around like I have been. Thanks for the help though, at least I know now it's not just a normal teg thing where the needle is out!

 

[carl hammond]

Mine sits in the middle when at temp and depending on the outside temp the Obd reader shows on my headunit the temp at full operating levels to be between 83 and 90. If I floor it before that it warns me the engine is not at optimal operating temp.

Mine like someone else said sits 3 to 4 lines higher

 

[MrRy]

Gauge looks out, I have a lower temp thermostat but it moves to the OEM temp position.

As above, my aftermarket Defi water gauge can show 60c, 70c, 80c, 90c, etc. and the OEM narrowband gauge shows no movement. Great stuff.

 

[C&S Evo7]

check all plugs behind the dash, its a common place to fit the speedo convertor , as the loom is tight the plugs often dont get pushed all the way back in.