Think my clutch is finished? - Emergency Question Added PIC

Jayk

Advanced Member
Messages
1,144
Guys i have just taken off my b&m shift and seen the shifter arm looks bent, does anyone know if it should be straight or bent in this way i cannot remember. It looks like it should be this way but not sure.

see the pic, cheers jay


Guys,

My problem is sometimes second gear pops out at low speeds, have to really push it in, has stopped doing it now,

but it is hard to get gears they dont just drop in like they used to, and sometimes they get stuck in gear i have to really force it out,

im thinking its the clutch it has done 48,000 miles.

anyone know the best place to get one, even a stock one or exedy stage 1 orgainc would do,

cheers
jay
 

Attachments

C&S Evo7

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
8,229
Sorry but i think that may be a gearbox problem (syncros) :(
Clutch generally wouldn't give that kind of problem, usually trouble engaging or slipping but popping out is not good news.
 

Jayk

Advanced Member
Messages
1,144
Second Gear hasnt popped out since i modifited my B&M, i thought it was to short, so i extended it and it hasnt popped out of gear since. It was like noise you get when havent engaged reverse it would make rather than popping out. I dunno

Have problems engaging and more problems disengaging. I had this problem but far worse when i snapped a clutch spring on my DC2.

Will get the box of on Monday and have a look at it, if its the clutch or the gearbox,

If its the clutch i will pop a new one in there and a lighter flywheel, might have to put the cams and kpro on hold :(

Cheers
Jay
 

C&S Evo7

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
8,229
Jay why did you have to modify your b&m?

From what you have just said it sounds like it could be the clutch or the shifter/cables, the clutch doesn't phisically hold the car in the gear tho.

You need to drop the subframe to get the box out :( which is a pain in the ass, while the subframe is down its a good time to do a baffled sump as it won't go on with it in place.

std honda clutch is around £200-£250 ish. They last well even and its what we use in the race cars.

Teg flywheel is already light too.
 

Jayk

Advanced Member
Messages
1,144
I fitted the B&M on closest shift length possible, and it was very very close, then i opened it up as 2nd/4th/6th gears didnt feel right on the shift, had a look and the B&M Linkage was catching on the housing, so i disconnected the linkage and took the surround high housing down a few mm, this allowed the gears to engage as per normal, so i thought!

then i started having the problem of 2nd gear dropping or not engaging properly, so i thought it was the shift length, so i adjusted the shift reduction from 30% to 25% i think.

felt much better got the mechanical feel of the gears actually dropping in. Didnt have any problems until the other day when i went out on a run the my mates. After a country blast with EVO 9 FQ340s, 2nd gear was jammed, had to really force it out.

Then after the car being parked up it was ok again, but then i had a little run with a mates ferrari 355 spider this morning and again the same problem.

I will drop it out as soon as i can, i can imagine it being a pain in the ass :(

I like the OEM clutch so i was thinking about putting that back on if the current one is finished. Do you not think its worth me putting in a 8.8lb flywheel? I think the OEM ones are 12 or 13lbs, should go through the gears quicker?

Deffo on the baffled sump to, will give TGM a call whilst its apart, also need a new front OEM engine mount.

At this rate i might aswel instal the toda cams and spring, drop the head of and put on the toda high comp headgasket!

Man this month is going to be busy :(
 

C&S Evo7

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
8,229
keep us updated, if you want a baffled sump, the tgm one is great value, mention me and the forum for a discount. :wink:

Personally i would stick with the std flywheel theres no great gain in changing unless you intend to circuit race the car.
 

gixer750

Advanced Member
Messages
219
just sounds like clutch drag to me, should be fine assuming the synchros haven't been battered by forcing in/out. if you can select all gears with engine off and no gears when running, most likely is clutch. if only a couple of gears are hard work when running, then that could be a very different game :?
 

Jayk

Advanced Member
Messages
1,144
cheers guys,

jsut been shopping this morning and its been fine, drove it hard to and changed gears at the redline no probs, Gears are not a problem when on standstill when the cars are off.

i do get a little thud when changing gears on the move though.

Im hoping its the clutch, will try and get the box of asap and have a look, will give TGM a call too.

Cheers
Jay
 

Jayk

Advanced Member
Messages
1,144
I have taken the B&M off and taken it out for a run and i havent had any problems, and a hard run at that.

I will leave the Stock shifter on for a while and see if i get any problems, this is rather strange, the stock shift length is massively long compare to the B&M :(

If i get problems then i will drop the box off, if not then i will return the B&M shifter, unless anyone wants it from here (cheap + i will fit it for free.)

Cheers
Jay
 

C&S Evo7

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
8,229
The shift cable is bent, it should be straight. That could be your problem as the relationship between the cables will be different..

You could gently try to straighten it, but the cables are very expensive :(
 

Jayk

Advanced Member
Messages
1,144
I did give it a try but it was pretty hard to bend back,

I will ask my mate to have a go tomorrow at his garage.

The B&M quickshift has caused that, I will be returning that tomorrow.

Lost my faith in Quickshifts, should i try a buddyclub one?

Now ive got this thing in the back of my head saying "should i drop the box to check the clutch and box to make sure everything is ok?"

Whats your name C&S EVO? Cheers for being helpful.

Jay
 

C&S Evo7

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
8,229
Its Simon.

I would leave the box in if it seems ok, but you will need to straighten the cable.
Where did you get the B&M From?
I have had one fitted for 2 years with no problems but i think Tom has had bent cable at one point, don't think we really looked as to why it bent though :?
 

Jayk

Advanced Member
Messages
1,144
The B&M was bought from Incarsystems, i got it at trade price as my uncle owns ICS. The B&M was fine for a week or so then it just started giving me no end of problems. I will send my B&M back get the cable straightened then try a BuddyClub one i think.

I do confess i shift very quickly when driving hard, maybe to quickly, maybe it was me who bent it, but ive done the same with the Stock shifter and never had a problem, maybe its because of the design as the bracket goes over the shifter cable and probably bent it.

Cheers Simon

Jay
 

dc5-2ltr

dc5-2ltr
Messages
1,920
Hope things are ok for you Jay...I`ve had a Buddyclub short shifter in for a while now with no probs...could well be what Simon has said,that cable should be straight
 

Tim_85

Active Member
Messages
85
Yep. Shift cable is definately bent mate. This is also probably what was causing you to pop out of 2nd. The bent arm has actually made your vertical shift a little shorter for the botttom half (2nd, 4th, 6th) of the box making it difficult for these gears to fully engage. It will always be trying to pull back towards neutral (causing disengagement).
As for the Buddyclub, I installed one this weekend. Fantastic quality and great feel. Didn't even need "gentle persuation" as most other mods do. Glitch has got some in stock at the moment and selling for a good price.

http://www.itr-dc5.com/forum/viewtopic. ... d66e6a190e

Shift feels short, tight and precise. Highly reccomended. Hope all is well for the RR Day on the 7th.
Fingers crossed for you mate!
 

lockwood77

Advanced Member
Messages
1,160
Tim, did you set the BC shifter at "shortest" (i.e. top of the bracket)? I have to adjust mine after fitting it at the longest throw :roll: :oops:

Funnily enough, my second gear is occasionally keen to get out, but it doesn't jump out at random, only with a little pressure on changing to third.
 

Tim_85

Active Member
Messages
85
Yeah. :lol:
Luckily read your post before fitting so cheers for for putting that up.
Second gear/synchro seems to be dodgy on a lot of Tegs. Mine feels lumpy on engagement when cold but its fine after its warmed up a little. Can't get over how much better the shift feels with the buddy club on! :shock:
Have u shortened your throw yet?
 

lockwood77

Advanced Member
Messages
1,160
Nah, meant to do it at the weekend but got caught up visiting relatives etc. Might have chance on Weds before a little drive out, which would be good.

My second gear is sometimes lumpy when cold, I take it as normal from what other people say. Will get the gearbox oil changed every annual service though (MTFIII now I suppose).
 

Jayk

Advanced Member
Messages
1,144
Cheers Guys,

Tim i have already contacted Glitch regards a BC shift, just have to get my money back from B&M, via ICS which i dont think is going to be easy.

Ive been giving the car some stick today and not had one problem with the OEM shifter at all. I cant imagine why those few times it was stuck in 2nd gear. Its fine now.

I tested the clutch in all gears its perfect. I have noise coming from the Gearbox though, sounds like a bearing so some sort. Not really that much but its there.

I should be OK for the RR day as the car is now, im having real problems with getting my CAMS as the guy i bought them from in the states (EBAY) is messing me around and VIA paypal i have paid alot of money, i have opened a dispute against him.

Also i bought some OEM engine mounts of Adam Self from here they are broken, i cant get hold of him either to get my money back.

Nothing seems to be going right, feel like taking the car to Paul and telling him to do and supply everything and hand my credit card over.
 
Top