TPS values OK but still kangarooing

[JOEBOLTON!]

Hi all,

As discussed in a previous post I mentioned about the kangerooing my dc5 has in 1st and second happening with anything under 3k revs?

I have checked the TPS values and got 0.47 CT and 4.58 WOT

These values seem in tolerance, anything else it could be?

Cheers guys

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[kyle'87]

Hi all,

As discussed in a previous post I mentioned about the kangerooing my dc5 has in 1st and second happening with anything under 3k revs?

I have checked the TPS values and got 0.47 CT and 4.58 WOT

These values seem in tolerance, anything else it could be?

Cheers guys

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Ignoring the values for now, I would put the TPS on and make sure it isn't under any tension, hard to explain but just bolt it back on so there is no load on its spring mechanism. Then go for a drive and see how it goes.

 

[Liam-R]

Hi mine was doing that for a while, ive got a Kpro so got the codes. First time it was primary 02 sensor needing replaced and the second time it was iacv circuit malfunction which basically was a frayed wire leading to iacv. Could be worth cleaning air filter, spark plugs etc and check oil then take it for a blast and see if any improvements!
They always judder when the engine is cold but if it's still juddering when it's warm could be one of the above. If the check engine light is on try and get the code it's usually bang on

 

[420jamesowen]

I was having the same issue. Things I did that sold the issue:

Check tension on the throttle cable, make sure it isnt too tight and does let the TB close fullly.
Check your TB is closing fully - I had a skunk2 TB and it wasnt snapping all the way shut letting too muc air through I was able to manuallly shut it further after it wasnt snapping back so swapped back to an OEM
Check your IACV is free moving, give it a good clean out - i scrubbed mine with a toothbrush and WD40 to make sure it spun freely
Check you have no vaccum leaks. Listen when the car is idling for hissing sounds. The OEM TB has two sensors on top my skunk2 only had one so i had to buy a Ktuned bung to go next to my MAP sensor.
If you have a Kpro I suggest setting the TB position settings for CT and WOT. Also I dropped my valve duty cycle down and the car runs way better then when I have it set to middle or higher.

 

[Johngreen537]

If you've got kpro, just turn off the iacv and use idle duty to balance the idle. Should rule that out.

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[JOEBOLTON!]

Hi guys thanks for the input, I don't have kpro I have k100 so unable to fiddle about with kmanager. Once I am back from holiday I will be checking everything you have recommended. I will keep you posted.

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[420jamesowen]

Hi guys thanks for the input, I don't have kpro I have k100 so unable to fiddle about with kmanager. Once I am back from holiday I will be checking everything you have recommended. I will keep you posted.

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any progress bud?

 

[JOEBOLTON!]

any progress bud?

My tps values were fine when tested with a multimeter. I have since got a new clutch and hybrid racing shifter which has made the car ten times better and doesn't kangaroo as much. I have been told its just a dc5 and her light flywheel....
My second gear is now playing me up

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[b18coupe]

the values maybe right on close and WOT but that's not where the issue areas are, normally its mid range that wears out on those and you wont pick that up on a multimeter

 

[420jamesowen]

the values maybe right on close and WOT but that's not where the issue areas are, normally its mid range that wears out on those and you wont pick that up on a multimeter

Interesting to know this. My kangaroo issues seem to be more around the 3k area not the inital start or high end. I have contacted Tegiwa and will be sending my KTuned Billet Hall Effect TPS back for exchange.

 

[JOEBOLTON!]

Interesting to know this. My kangaroo issues seem to be more around the 3k area not the inital start or high end. I have contacted Tegiwa and will be sending my KTuned Billet Hall Effect TPS back for exchange.

Mine is a bit tempermentale at 3k only when I let of the gas it kind of just jolts and jumps a bit then a bit of clutch work to smooth it out and control it. Hard to know if its the nature of the car or if something is wrong, especially if you have never owned a car like this. I am happy with how it performs atm but in the near future I will be upgrading to an RRC Mani and 70mm TB + a remap to see if I can smooth it out.

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[420jamesowen]

Mine is a bit tempermentale at 3k only when I let of the gas it kind of just jolts and jumps a bit then a bit of clutch work to smooth it out and control it. Hard to know if its the nature of the car or if something is wrong, especially if you have never owned a car like this. I am happy with how it performs atm but in the near future I will be upgrading to an RRC Mani and 70mm TB + a remap to see if I can smooth it out.

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I've heard many people say don't get a bigger TB. Not much point performance gains wise etc. I actually had a skunk2 70mm TB on the car when i brought it and its a load of junk. The butterfly wouldnt close properly and then previous owner used a standard size thermo gasket instead of a 70mm one so rendered it even more pointless. The mani had been ported to 70mm too. I can only assume they made the gasket smaller to try take a step back on the 70mm venture they started.

 

[jown]

Hi mine was doing that for a while, ive got a Kpro so got the codes. First time it was primary 02 sensor needing replaced and the second time it was iacv circuit malfunction which basically was a frayed wire leading to iacv. Could be worth cleaning air filter, spark plugs etc and check oil then take it for a blast and see if any improvements!
They always judder when the engine is cold but if it's still juddering when it's warm could be one of the above. If the check engine light is on try and get the code it's usually bang on

Would these not show a CEL?

I sometimes get this problem when low rev in 1st and 2nd gear

 

[kyle'87]

Hi all,

As discussed in a previous post I mentioned about the kangerooing my dc5 has in 1st and second happening with anything under 3k revs?

I have checked the TPS values and got 0.47 CT and 4.58 WOT

These values seem in tolerance, anything else it could be?

Cheers guys

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I've started to get this exact problem, found any solutions yet?


Things I have tried are

• Change TPS
• Clean IACV
• Check for Vac leaks
• Change the primary 02 sensor recently before this problem even started

Not sure where to turn next. I will check the spark plugs and the IACV circuit.

 

[JOEBOLTON!]

I haven't made a start at diagnosing it yet but I will post something if I do. Let me know if you have any luck?

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[kyle'87]

I haven't made a start at diagnosing it yet but I will post something if I do. Let me know if you have any luck?

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No problems, I'm going to be purchasing a new IACV (even though I think mine is OK), a new Deatschwoks fuel pump and also swapping my primary 02 sensor. I will update if any of those solve the issue.

 

[JOEBOLTON!]

No problems, I'm going to be purchasing a new IACV (even though I think mine is OK), a new Deatschwoks fuel pump and also swapping my primary 02 sensor. I will update if any of those solve the issue.

Thanks mate good luck

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[Liam-R]

Hi if you've still not had any luck with the issue are you sure it's engine related and not brakes? I had a seized calliper one time which felt like kangarooing but on idle my engine was fine. If your engine isn't hunting for revs at idle it could be that at low speeds i.e in first or second that a sticky calliper is causing juddering. Might be worth a check before you throw too much more money at it


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