under sealed

kevinjwiles

Advanced Member
Messages
138
Hey

So I have being in touch with someone about an integra who said tje car was under sealed.

He said its starting to flake, now im not much of a car man in terms of mecahnics.

What could this cost to fix
 

Gordyitrdc5

Advanced Member
Messages
1,514
If you are not to far take it to tgm in fleet Hampshire might have to leave it over night tho as for the price I don't know.
 

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
Messages
5,224
My mate has had his Alfa Romeo done by an Italian car place near Wrexham called All Italia, cost him around £150 - £100 and he said they've done a great job, don't just do Italian cars.

Sure most places can do it for you though. The other alternative is to do it yourself with Hammerite but it would take ages I imagine.
 

davidpingu

Advanced Member
Messages
2,583
I paid £100 labour for mine but bought the materials seperately myself. So as you can see by the posts so far it can vary between £70 - £150. Wouldn't expect to pay more than that really.

If it's already peeling you aren't going to want to use paint like hammerite as you'd have to literally heat gun all the old stuff off which would take FOREVER.

Probably just needs a top up in which case it may not cost much at all. Best bet would be to get it up on the ramps and decide from there whether it needs a whole new coat or if it just needs a bit of a light overspray.
 

Wingnuttzz

Advanced Member
Messages
1,490
Underseal is very much you get what you pay for sort of thing.

Do it cheap and they will put a thin coat over everything they can see/can reach and probably cover lots of bits you don't want covered.

Get it done properly and they will get the wheels off, arch liners off, either drop or wrap the exhaust etc and then underseal it.

If it does need a top up, most likely in the wheel arches, just do it yourself, wire brush the flaking bits and top up.
 

martinj46

Advanced Member
Messages
457
Coldfuse said:
Where did you get that done?
Wallace Performance. They did a pretty good job too, but it'll need a few bits touched up that have chipped off over winter, but that was to be expected.
 

Phelpo711

Advanced Member
Messages
421
Just had mine fully done with waxoyl and underseal. All panels waxoyl'd, even the bonnet. Well worth doing. Really happy with the result
 

ste01

Advanced Member
Messages
918
Cool, it's definately worth getting full protection with all the salt over here. I'm going to do mine properly in a month or so. It was waxoyled on the exposed bits when it was imported last October but I'm going to strip it and redo with dinitrol/cavity wax. I'll be going as far as I can doing inside the door panels, wings, bonnet, all that stuff I can get too. I'll also look at drilling holes to inject cavity wax into other areas of the body/chasis....or more likely chicken out and get a pro to do that bit! ;)
 

Rom

Advanced Member
Messages
1,742
If its flaking, it will be the thicker, rubberised type stone chip. This is what i favour. It dries rubbery, to deflect stones, which aids the life of it.
Ive only used it in litre cans, sprayed on with a schultz gun.

Waxoil is a thinner material. In my opinion, this would only be used for cavity protection. So inside chassis legs and the like. If theres a hole, get the lance in there and spray it!
It can also be used inside of doors, and rear arches etc (behind the trim panels). Im not a huge fan, i dont like the finish it leaves,and by its nature, remains somewhat tacky.

For cavity protection, i use Dynax S50 by Bilt Hamber. Comes in big aerosol cans with lance etc. One can should do a Teg, if your doing just cavities and inside doors and rear arches.

This is all based on personal experience and opinion. Heres a couple of pics of stuff ive done...

205 Gti, white stone chip, dynax s50 in any cavities. Im a sick little puppy and removed fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank etc.








Honda EF8 , black stone chip, dynax s50 in any cavities. This was a mask and spray job.






Dynax in rear arches...

 

ste01

Advanced Member
Messages
918
Looks good dude, that's the sort of thing I'm aiming for. I plan on keeping the teg for good so want it to stay as rust free as possible, for as long as possible. No point maintaining it while the rest rots away!
 
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