Valve clearance question

Andywilkinson

Advanced Member
Messages
536
Afternoon all

Well tonight i'm going to be doing my valve clearances, now i looked in the service manual that i downloaded from here, but not sure which settings i should use

please check exhibit A



Two different engine codes, and i think they are both RSX rather thn type R

If these are wrong does anyone know the correct measurments?

Cheers in advance

Andy
 

Andywilkinson

Advanced Member
Messages
536
MilanoChris said:
K20A mate, the A2 is the EDM CTR and RSX type S, the A3 is the base RSX.
Cheers Chris

So that must mean i cant use those measurements. Anyone know what measurements i should use?
 

fonz600

Advanced Member
Messages
575
I'm sure I used 0.008-0.010 inlet and 0.010-0.012 for exhaust when i did mine not that long ago.
Can't remember where I got the figures from though.
 

Andywilkinson

Advanced Member
Messages
536
Yeah they are the figures i used last night, seems to have done the trick.

16v took me over an hour to do, gonna buy an 8 valve car next time :lol:

I did find the clearance was quite big so glad i checked them
 

LA-DC5 ITR

Advanced Member
Messages
1,009
i got this done just iver a week ago and my car now sounds rough as hell from 2k through to 4.5k......are they over tight?
 

SpideyMack

Advanced Member
Messages
206
LA-DC5 ITR said:
i got this done just iver a week ago and my car now sounds rough as hell from 2k through to 4.5k......are they over tight?
This has to be done when the engine is STONE COLD. If it was done with any heat in the engine then that could mean they are over tight. Someone will correct me if my logic is wrong.
 

fonz600

Advanced Member
Messages
575
LA-DC5 ITR said:
i got this done just iver a week ago and my car now sounds rough as hell from 2k through to 4.5k......are they over tight?
Probably opposite if it sounds rattley.

The car should have sat for 24hrs before adjusting them to ensure it is cold.

It's not too bad a job to do. The back 8 are a we bit tricky but if you have the right kind of feeler blades with the bend in them it helps.
 

fonz600

Advanced Member
Messages
575
SpideyMack said:
LA-DC5 ITR said:
i got this done just iver a week ago and my car now sounds rough as hell from 2k through to 4.5k......are they over tight?
This has to be done when the engine is STONE COLD. If it was done with any heat in the engine then that could mean they are over tight. Someone will correct me if my logic is wrong.
Seeing as metal will expand when heated I'd imagine it is the opposite. Not 100% but if metal is warm and expanded then you adjust them, when it cools the gaps will be bigger when metal contracts.
The gap is there to allow for the expansion with heat.
 

jay82

Advanced Member
Messages
2,185
LA-DC5 ITR said:
i got this done just iver a week ago and my car now sounds rough as hell from 2k through to 4.5k......are they over tight?
where did u get them done?
 

LA-DC5 ITR

Advanced Member
Messages
1,009
Donr in TF

they let my car sit from 10am till 3pm before doing them. It doesnt sound rattly, more of an abrasive metal sound. kinda sounds like something is catching and making a grindy noise.

my engine noise is definatelty louder though :shock:
 

Andywilkinson

Advanced Member
Messages
536
Easy job to do, but as stated the back 8 are a bit tricky to get to!

Worth doing in my opinion!

Engine should be cold as the valves expand with heat.

The hardest bit was getting the cam to turn so that i had them in the correct place to read the clearance
 

acepty

Advanced Member
Messages
210
Andywilkinson said:
Easy job to do, but as stated the back 8 are a bit tricky to get to!

Worth doing in my opinion!

Engine should be cold as the valves expand with heat.

The hardest bit was getting the cam to turn so that i had them in the correct place to read the clearance
mate you should have done some kind of write up with pics.. :)
 

logik

Advanced Member
Messages
1,630
Yeah would love a write up with pics done. If anyone is doing theirs soon, throw it up :)
 

Andywilkinson

Advanced Member
Messages
536
I took a pic of the engine whilst doing it so may post that up and a quick "what i did" senario for you later if your interested :)
 

fonz600

Advanced Member
Messages
575
Andywilkinson said:
I took a pic of the engine whilst doing it so may post that up and a quick "what i did" senario for you later if your interested :)
Funnily enough I took a couple of pics too. Here they are if you wanna add any words to them. I wish I took the 2nd pic with the lobes facing up to show where they are for adjusting the clearances but just took a couple pics before I got started.



 

Andywilkinson

Advanced Member
Messages
536
Right just a nice quick write up, those pics are better than the ones i have, so i wont bother posting my pics.

Ok, to start with, you need to remove the cam cover, so plastic spark cover trim off, remover the coil packs, leave the spark plugs in! Take the breather pipe off thats attached to the filter. Basicly anything is holding the cover in place.

The cover should just lift striaght off, just be very careful not to drop anything into the engine, i.e, screws, bolts etc

Ok, next, on the photo above you see the cams, closer set are the intake, further away are the exhaust!

Settings i used where, intake clearance 0.08 or 0.21mm and exhaust 0.10 or 0.25 mm

OK Now you need the cam lobe to be in the "up" position, so that the clearance on the valve can be set. The tricky part i found was moving the cam, so i was taught to, take the handbrake off, and put the car in to 2nd gear.

Now if you move the car backwards or forwards, the cams rotate.

So starting with the intake side, get the cam in the correct position to the valve, i.e. the cam is in the high position, furthest away from the valve, if you understand me

Ok now with the correct feeler gauge, push this in between the valve and the adjuster. (looking at the close up picture, the feeler gauge goes between the round disc and the screw!)

If alteration is needed, undone the bolt and tighten/loosen the slotted screw accordingly. Correct position is when you can feel the feeler gauge is just being held in place but still able to move it. Hard to explain but i am sure you understand :lol:

When the correct clearance is set, tighten back up the bolt, but be sure to check the clearance after as the bolt can alter the gap, sometimes, you need to compensate for this when tightening!

So there are 2 valves per cam lobe. So when those 2 are set move on to the next set, moving the car backwards or forwards again whilst still in 2nd moves the cam to the desired position, and the next set of clearance can be set.

Same to be done on the exhaust valves too. These are a little trickier to get to due to them being at the back, but with some feeler gauges you can bend into place, its a bit easier!

Then your done, put it all back together.

It is pretty simple, but i am really crap at explaining things! :lol:

But i tried, so hope that is of a little bit of help!

If i did miss anything out, or anyone disagrees with anything i have done, i am sure they wil speak up.

Hope that helps a little :)
 
Top