VTEC not engaging - EML/oil level?

[Filkmeister]

As per title, but not as it seems! Any help/experience appreciated. Yup, had a search about, but nothing quite matches - so here goes.

Had intermittent VTEC headaches for a little while with no switchover at 6k accompanied by what sounds like misfire/rev-limiter sort of cutting out (quite hair-raising when in midst of overtaking...). EML now on continuously.

Anyways after careful "self-diagnosis" using the brilliant paperclip method kept turning up VSS which it isn't as that all works. Three cheers to dotty for the method and EML interpretation by the way.

However, aware of that old chestnut the fine gauze filter for the VTEC solenoid possibly clogged, duly had that off and cleaned up when did recent service. EML then switched off when turning on ignition - all good.

Now here's the thing, when did oil change poured in c. 4.75 litres (according to marks on a 5 litre pack). Wasn't entirely convinced it was between the holes on the dipstick though? Historically, it has barely used any oil and there are no leaks.

Take it out, warm it up and the same sort of issue (no or intermittent VTEC) and EML back on. I have since checked several times and realised that the oil level is still only in the mid-point between the holes in the dipstick. I have put in best part of another litre and it is still not at the top when warm?

So just how much oil is needed to fill it right up? The sump looks like standard Honda, is there a high capacity sump out there maybe?

Car is 2006 facelift.

Thoughts anyone.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Britz]

Mine normally takes about 5ltrs or just over for the oil to reach top mark on the dipstick mate but no idea what would cause the vtec problems hope you manage to get it sorted out

 

[spooke]

Is the EML still caused by VSS? Maybe worth changing the sensor out.

Oil wise, I'd just keep filling until you're happy with the level on the stick, I put about 5 ltrs in as above and just keep it as close to the top as possible when warm - I do find the stick is very hard to read sometimes though especially with fresh oil. Presumably there's no leak, perhaps there's a lack of oil pressure?

 

[subtronics]

Not sure on the VSS sensor, as above might be worth changing it, or getting a proper code reader on it.

As for the oil, I noticed the same after a recent oil change. I fill up to exactly half way on the oil stick, not sure how much oil I had put in. But after a couple of days checked again and it was well bellow the bottom line. Took nearly a litre to get it back up to half way. Since changing my rocker gasket it hasn't burned any oil since this extra top up, and that includes a track day.

 

[Filkmeister]

Thanks for thoughts folks - I know what you mean about fresh oil on the dipstick - it can be nigh on impossible to read with fresh clean oil. Double-checked for loss again, no oil leaks (well at least none that can readily be seen with an educated eye).

Have had reader on the VSS issue, the thing is though that the speedo, odo and tacho are all reading okay..?

Will carefully add in some more oil, reset ECU when get a chance and report back.

Cheers.

 

[Filkmeister]

PS. The issue with oil volume/level was to do with low levels possibly leading to loss of VTEC as it might cause momentary pressure loss, so it won't engage - unless it was very low (as in disastrously) I can't see that being the case with mine, especially as have put in >5 litres.

 

[2ndy]

For oil level to effect the pressure enough to stop vtec it wouldn't even show on the dipstick. Plug it into a computer yet?

 

[maxvr6]

If it keeps coming up with the VSS, could it not be related to the little speed converter either on top of the gearbox or behind the cluster? These are known to go especially the ones installed on the gearbox as they are exposed to the elements. Could also be a dodgy connection between the two?

 

[crasherkid]

Bump any advances on this? Sounds like a similar fault to mine at 6k rpm.

 

[Filkmeister]

Yeah I know it has been a while and I said I would report back. Was thinking it might assist anyone else with same symptoms diagnose the problem and hence the fix!

Well, having been over the wiring the converter, VSS, fusebox blah, blah the EML would switch off as expected and then "randomly" illuminate every now and then... Having not had VTEC available for a lengthy period I had almost forgotten just what it delivers - good God! ...and by God it's good!!! Anyways having got thoroughly frustrated I found myself opening it up with the EML on and after having the engine clatter about at 6k after several runs VTEC would smoothly engage...

I have no idea really what the issue is, but in the last month or so it has seemingly sorted itself out...

Not sure what that all means, but I did also notice that running routinely on super e.g. VPower etc it seemed to eventually sort itself out. This made me wonder whether the anti-knock was somehow involved in all this? presumably the ECU figures out what to do depending on what it sees in terms of combustion performance?

There again, more likely that I re-aligned the wiring with all the fiddling about!