Weight Saving Suggestions

Mudgey

Advanced Member
Messages
158
Hi,

I am applying Colin Chapmans philosophy: "Simplify, then add lightness.", to my own car to help increase performance everywhere.

The aim is to get it to sub 1100kg for now whilst keeping a stock appearance from the outside and without going as far as gutting the interior etc.

Currently I have removed complexity and weight with the following modifications:

  • Hydraulic PS replaced with EPS. Removes weight and drag on the engine.
  • Removed tensioner and idler puller, replaced with k-tuned alt relocate kit.
  • OEM header replaced with aftermarket.
  • OEM battery replaced with Oddysey PC680 battery.
  • Air Con completely removed.
  • Some cast engine mount components replaced with billet alloy.

I haven't added up the weight saving from the above so far but I expect the savings are in the region of at least 30kg or more.


Other things I have considered:
  • Rear alloy LCA's - approx. 2kg saving I have heard.
  • Alloy disc bells - I have considered making a set with AP Racing discs, but not sure if there is enough room for the disc to bell attachment hardware. - potentially at least 1kg per disc.
  • Rear disc bells - greater savings to be had, especially if converted to EP3 rear hubs with 15mm reduced offset.
  • Looked into Recaro Fixed Back SPG's - potentially 20kg saving to be had but it's a controversial subject running fixed back seats without roll over protection...

Where else can we make savings without resorting to gutting the interior and sacrificing safety?
 

coyote_dc5

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
2,892
Wheels. Oem are very heavy compared to modern ones and it's unsprung too ;)

Sent from my STH100-2 using Tapatalk
 

hondamad2204

Advanced Member
Messages
3,832
Easy one would be unsprung weight, change the wheels over :). Get some aftermarket ones that look OEM. Nice savings to be had there. Lightening the flywheel could be another option, but all this seems like a lot of effort for not much gain. Fair play to you though :).

You could go as far as you want with it really, plain carbon bonnet and colour code it, change the seats over for something lighter that look oem, go to the loo before you get in it? Haha

Be interested to see your total weight savings however. Good luck in reaching your target
 

adam.

Advanced Member
Messages
762
You got rid of one of the best hydraulic power steering systems ever created, and replaced it with EPAS?
 

Mudgey

Advanced Member
Messages
158
I was under the impression the original wheels were forged from the factory and already quite light? What sort of weights do the stock wheels come in at compared to aftermarket ones?

I have saved the hydraulic PS and can refit should it feel a bit crap!
 

coyote_dc5

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
2,892
Mudgey said:
I was under the impression the original wheels were forged from the factory and already quite light? What sort of weights do the stock wheels come in at compared to aftermarket ones?

I have saved the hydraulic PS and can refit should it feel a bit crap!
I've got a set of mag alloy ones and they are 1/2 the weight of oem. Incredible difference

Sent from my STH100-2 using Tapatalk
 

adam.

Advanced Member
Messages
762
Mudgey said:
Yea, still in the process of wiring up the PS ECU at the moment.
Congrats, you've taken the best thing about the DC5 and replaced it with the absolute worst thing about the EP3. :xgrin:

Are you going to modify the EPAS to incorporate variable assistance? Because otherwise, I think you'll be converting back to the DC5 setup pretty quickly lol.
 

Mudgey

Advanced Member
Messages
158
adamlstr said:
Congrats, you've taken the best thing about the DC5 and replaced it with the absolute worst thing about the EP3. :xgrin:

Are you going to modify the EPAS to incorporate variable assistance? Because otherwise, I think you'll be converting back to the DC5 setup pretty quickly lol.
Hah, we shall see! I've driven an EP3 and didn't think it was that bad... but yes, I've kept the OEM stuff just in case! Yea, it will be fully wired up to the engine ECU for road speed and RPM signal.


Coyote: That's a hell of a saving, what are the alloys you have?
 

Chewy

Advanced Member
Messages
2,100
Replace all glass with the exception of windscreen with polycarbonate items.

As suggested already, replace bonnet/boot with carbon/fiberglass equivalents.

OEM wheels are roughly 8.5KG, to put it into perspective a similar sized CE28 (forged 7.5J) is roughly 6KG.
 

Chrismartin

Advanced Member
Messages
1,614
adamlstr said:
Congrats, you've taken the best thing about the DC5 and replaced it with the absolute worst thing about the EP3. :xgrin:

Are you going to modify the EPAS to incorporate variable assistance? Because otherwise, I think you'll be converting back to the DC5 setup pretty quickly lol.
That's a massive exaggeration in my opinion. I had an EP3 for 18 months before my Teg which I owned for 36 months roughly. The Teg was a good upgrade no doubt but your making it out to be the worst thing on the planet which it is far from. I personally wouldn't have removed it for weight saving myself but it's not as bad as you make out.
 

Snowbeard

Active Member
Messages
75
wheels, and you'll feel the difference.
I went from 8kg to 6.5kg wheels on my old mitsubishi and the difference was night and day. Swapped back over to OEM one time and it was like i was dragging an anchor behind the car. Unsprung weight reduction is amazing.

Buy the lightest 17s you can find, job done.

Carbon bonnet will also shed a load of weight in one hit, then you can go carbon front wings and bootlid. Get it all painted if you want the OEM look.
 

adam.

Advanced Member
Messages
762
Chrismartin said:
That's a massive exaggeration in my opinion. I had an EP3 for 18 months before my Teg which I owned for 36 months roughly. The Teg was a good upgrade no doubt but your making it out to be the worst thing on the planet which it is far from. I personally wouldn't have removed it for weight saving myself but it's not as bad as you make out.
I too had an EP3 and the steering was woeful, it had barely any feel. Felt as if it was a supermini. It got a little better when I fitted coilovers with pillow ball top mounts and wound in some camber and extra castor.

I removed the worm gear from the motor to go to manual rack to try it. I could barely move the steering wheel, lol.
 

Fez

Advanced Member
Messages
1,441
When i first got my car i had it weighed at 1200kg totally standard.
Recently had it corner weighted and it was 1145kg
Coilovers
Function 7 lcas
Wheels(probably about same weight as oem)
Carbon bonnet
Removed spare wheel and tools
Battery relocated to boot
Aftermarket mani.
Removed stock airbox, just blox VS filter.

I know rear seats/plastics weigh about 25kg, so them out and 2 buckets will probably be close to 1100kg, and i still have air con, just because its more handy to me than to save ~10kg.
 
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