Yellowspeed ROAD Coilovers

[MikeH89]

Hi Guys,

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with the Yellowspeed Road coilovers that Area Motorsport sell for £699.

As these appear to be a direct fit to the DC5 they are quite good value.

I have tried searching but it seems most people opt for Area's preset track setup. I'm looking for ride quality, it can be just as stock as far as I'm concerned but I don't want the ride any firmer.

I've heard good things about Bilstein B14 but by the time I have purchased new top mounts and track rod ends they work out a bit over budget. I will of course be fitting camber bolts and arms with any suspension I fit with a FRSU.

Thanks

 

[athenian]

The only difference between the "road" and Area' "track" spec is the rear spring rate. The road version comes with 8kg rear springs and the track 16kg, putting that aside they are exactly identical.

 

[ollieh17]

The only difference between the "road" and Area' "track" spec is the rear spring rate. The road version comes with 8kg rear springs and the track 16kg, putting that aside they are exactly identical.

Trrack came with caster adjustable topmounts not camber as well I believe

 

[MikeH89]

Ah interesting comments, thanks guys.

So presumably the track spec are a little more playful on the back end.

In reality I really don't need too much adjustment and once fitted I won't touch the settings unless there is a specific need to.

Area's package entry level track spec could be something to look at if they will be somewhere close to factory ride quality in terms of compliance, it's not like the factory ride isn't quite firm and crashy on UK roads.

 

[carl hammond]

If you're not tracking the car or looking to go too aggressive have you considered Bilstein B14's or B16's if the budget allows? Although less adjustability on both the quality is better and longer lasting (from what I have heard on many discussions recently). Kev has run a number of setups and said he hated the YellowSpeed's whereas others have loved them, Bilstein hoever is just far superior for quality of materials used (which is why the command a higher price). For the monies you are talking you must be able to source B14's or B16's, deals always available on them also

 

[big-pete]

If you're not tracking the car or looking to go too aggressive have you considered Bilstein B14's or B16's if the budget allows? Although less adjustability on both the quality is better and longer lasting (from what I have heard on many discussions recently). Kev has run a number of setups and said he hated the YellowSpeed's whereas others have loved them, Bilstein hoever is just far superior for quality of materials used (which is why the command a higher price). For the monies you are talking you must be able to source B14's or B16's, deals always available on them also

ran b14s on my old cupra and my bocanegra- super comfy and really really high quality item. personally a bit to soft, and didnt go "low" enough for what i wanted but if thats not important the billstein is probably the best ROAD coilover going.

 

[carl hammond]

ran b14s on my old cupra and my bocanegra- super comfy and really really high quality item. personally a bit to soft, and didnt go "low" enough for what i wanted but if thats not important the billstein is probably the best ROAD coilover going.

Agreed, I have B16's as I track the car (not bothered fitting them yet but I will for next season), but the amount of people who run B14's for mainly road use I have yet to hear a bad experience, Bilstein's cost but are top quality item's and less adjustability for better quality long lasting items is key as I would want my setup to last many many years instead of a few years before they corrode and look ancient.

I am sure one of the complaints with the YellowSpeeds was that they looks corroded and old very quickly due to the cheaper quality of the items used.

 

[MikeH89]

I would be happy to agree that the B14's sound like they would be the right route for me, just they are a little more expensive than what I was originally looking to spend... but isn't that always the way!

Just to make sure I have a rough idea of cost...

B14's (EP3 Fitment) - Approx £835
EP3 Track Rod Ends - Anywhere £20-60 depending on brand/quality
Top Mounts - £100-130 (Front)
Camber Bolts - £25
Camber Arms - £90-130

Are these about right? And presumably the rear top mounts probably don't need changing as there is no bearing inside them.

 

[SamDC5]

I would be happy to agree that the B14's sound like they would be the right route for me, just they are a little more expensive than what I was originally looking to spend... but isn't that always the way!

Just to make sure I have a rough idea of cost...

B14's (EP3 Fitment) - Approx £835
EP3 Track Rod Ends - Anywhere £20-60 depending on brand/quality
Top Mounts - £100-130 (Front)
Camber Bolts - £25
Camber Arms - £90-130

Are these about right? And presumably the rear top mounts probably don't need changing as there is no bearing inside them.

I thought top mounts were about £25 each? I have B14's on mine and I love them. Great for the road albeit too soft for track but they work fine. They're comfier than OEM yet the car feels much more stable in the corners.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[MikeH89]

I thought top mounts were about £25 each? I have B14's on mine and I love them. Great for the road albeit too soft for track but they work fine. They're comfier than OEM yet the car feels much more stable in the corners.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Just checked the KYB online catalogue and for pattern ones (KYB may even make them for Honda?) they are approx £30 each for fronts and £20 each for the rear bushings and rubbers, so £100 could do all 4 corners.

Can anyone confirm that both front and rear top mounts are the same on the EP3 as the DC5? I presumed they would be...

I might just buy all the bits first, then buy the coilovers seperately, and i'll tell the wife that I got it all for a bargain price on eBay! Ha!

 

[carl hammond]

I would be happy to agree that the B14's sound like they would be the right route for me, just they are a little more expensive than what I was originally looking to spend... but isn't that always the way!

Just to make sure I have a rough idea of cost...

B14's (EP3 Fitment) - Approx £835
EP3 Track Rod Ends - Anywhere £20-60 depending on brand/quality
Top Mounts - £100-130 (Front)
Camber Bolts - £25
Camber Arms - £90-130

Are these about right? And presumably the rear top mounts probably don't need changing as there is no bearing inside them.

This is correct however as below:

REQUIRED:
B14's (EP3 Fitment) - Approx £835
EP3 Track Rod Ends - Anywhere £20-60 depending on brand/quality
Top Mounts - £100-130 (Front)
A few small washers / spacers - unsure of size as I need to find out myself and buy some more as I have lost mine :-(

OPTIONAL - Wouldn't bother unless you want more camber for track use tbh
Camber Bolts - £25
Camber Arms - £90-130

 

[MikeH89]

Okay, I had been under the impression that camber adjustment was a must when changing the stock suspension but if it isn't I can either see how the car feels after fitting or go with adjustable stuff later along the line.

Thanks for your advice

 

[carl hammond]

Okay, I had been under the impression that camber adjustment was a must when changing the stock suspension but if it isn't I can either see how the car feels after fitting or go with adjustable stuff later along the line.

Thanks for your advice

I fitted mugen showa shocks and spoon springs and it's on oem bolts and arms, the only reason you'd want those is for a more aggressive geo with camber etc (aka a FRSU) but they are not essential so you'd be fine without them and then add them if and when you need or want in the future when funds allow mate.

 

[MikeH89]

I fitted mugen showa shocks and spoon springs and it's on oem bolts and arms, the only reason you'd want those is for a more aggressive geo with camber etc (aka a FRSU) but they are not essential so you'd be fine without them and then add them if and when you need or want in the future when funds allow mate.

Brilliant, cheers mate

 

[ollieh17]

I fitted mugen showa shocks and spoon springs and it's on oem bolts and arms, the only reason you'd want those is for a more aggressive geo with camber etc (aka a FRSU) but they are not essential so you'd be fine without them and then add them if and when you need or want in the future when funds allow mate.

Is there much adjustment in the standard parts? If you lower too much its going to throw the geometry all out

 

[carl hammond]

Is there much adjustment in the standard parts? If you lower too much its going to throw the geometry all out

No not on the standard arms and bolts but the spoon springs and mugen shocks is a 40mm drop and I have not rolled the arches and push the car hard on track and have had 0 issues, no rubbing etc and I have been using 225 wide tyres and going up to 235 next year.

40 MM drop is my cars ride height (see my build for an idea of how it sits) and it's spot on, perfect feel and just enough lift off oversteer when wanted. I am only removing all this and fitting my B16's and getting a more aggressive geo as I mainly use the car on track. This year 60% of my miles were on track and about 20% of the non track miles were too and from track and TGM having the car setup lol...

If you go too low you'll wreck the cars handling capabilities anyway so B14's on normal fresh geo would be fine with circa 40mm drop allround

 

[ollieh17]

No not on the standard arms and bolts but the spoon springs and mugen shocks is a 40mm drop and I have not rolled the arches and push the car hard on track and have had 0 issues, no rubbing etc and I have been using 225 wide tyres and going up to 235 next year.

40 MM drop is my cars ride height (see my build for an idea of how it sits) and it's spot on, perfect feel and just enough lift off oversteer when wanted. I am only removing all this and fitting my B16's and getting a more aggressive geo as I mainly use the car on track. This year 60% of my miles were on track and about 20% of the non track miles were too and from track and TGM having the car setup lol...

If you go too low you'll wreck the cars handling capabilities anyway so B14's on normal fresh geo would be fine with circa 40mm drop allround

Fair, but if you are going to spend so much on coilovers I dont see why you wouldn't optimise the set up

 

[carl hammond]

Fair, but if you are going to spend so much on coilovers I dont see why you wouldn't optimise the set up

Depends on ones needs from a car and their local area. I hardly use mine on the road and so don't care about tramlining, bumpy harsh journeys but if it was my daily I would rather a nice smooth solid setup that's capable on the road. For example, my track setup on my GTR was far from road worthy, the car was nasty on the road but on track epic, same as my DC2 and how my DC5 will be. On the road they can become near on un drivable due to poor road surfaces etc.

Everyone calls in a FRSU, when in reality all it is is a more aggressive geo and nothing more, camber etc will add additional wear on the tyres so if the cars a road car then it's unnecessary unless driving spirited a lot which is then where I say " get on a track if that's how you want to drive " as otherwise you endanger not only yourself but others and put others insurance up when you run out of talent or the car acts unexpectedly due to surface and condition changes.

Also what I was saying was if the op's budget is tight he's better off with better quality B14's and oem camber arms and bolts for now and upgrade them when he can afford the additional works to be completed and so on. At least this way he has high end decent reputable quality suspension he knows wont fail for the life of the car in his/her ownership etc.

 

[ollieh17]

Depends on ones needs from a car and their local area. I hardly use mine on the road and so don't care about tramlining, bumpy harsh journeys but if it was my daily I would rather a nice smooth solid setup that's capable on the road. For example, my track setup on my GTR was far from road worthy, the car was nasty on the road but on track epic, same as my DC2 and how my DC5 will be. On the road they can become near on un drivable due to poor road surfaces etc.

Everyone calls in a FRSU, when in reality all it is is a more aggressive geo and nothing more, camber etc will add additional wear on the tyres so if the cars a road car then it's unnecessary unless driving spirited a lot which is then where I say " get on a track if that's how you want to drive " as otherwise you endanger not only yourself but others and put others insurance up when you run out of talent or the car acts unexpectedly due to surface and condition changes.

At the same time lowering and messing up the geometry without adjusting to suit also increases tyre wear. I assume there is some adjustment to make up for the drop?

 

[carl hammond]

At the same time lowering and messing up the geometry without adjusting to suit also increases tyre wear. I assume there is some adjustment to make up for the drop?

Yeah when fitting it you have to get a four wheel alignment and geo done (which is just the oem parts being undone and moved accordingly) to align the steering wheels and ensure all wheels are as they should be. Just a normal geo like on any car