Recent content by Justintian

Aye, just tried it, suppose there is no immobiliser built in the key. Thanks.

Hi all, I think someone in here may be have the experience on this. I had my ecu kproed now I want to return the car to standard, I have purchased a pfl ecu from another dc5 owner in here, can I change the ecu straight swap to my car? Do I need to reprogrammed my key for the new pfl ecu...

Mine one is for sale albeit it is located in belfast http://www.itr-dc5.club/forum/index.php?/topic/45045-clean-example-of-cw-2003-honda-dc5-kpro4-mapped-£7800/?fromsearch=1

I actually am going through selling the teg and buy a Elise 2. Honda engine Elise is so much fun though. The aluminum chassis means you can forget about the rust. The teg is a lot of money jut to put it on a track toy tbh.

Race car, what's wrong with the fuel smell? :D

I second fibreworx have ordered a front canards in "dry carbon" so the waiting time is normally 3-4weeks

I always keep my fuel above 1/4 just for sure. If you are really going for it with slick tyres you properly should put a swirl pot in the fuel line just to avoid the starvation or bubble due to the G force you may create during hard cornering.

I normally change my engine oil and gearbox oil between 3-4 trackdays in the summer season. Normally 4-5 x15mins per trackday. It was recommended by a lot local trackday regulars. However it depends on how hard you drive, if you are only new to the track, pay attention to brake pads and fluids...

I got my boss from drift works it's the same as ep3. It fits perfect. You do need to have a play with the horn though find a place to plug the wire to the metal piece coming with the steering wheel.

Good to know that's attributed to the o2 sensor! Hope you get them sorted.

The front tie rods from oem is too long if you are intend to lower the car a lot, as too long in the tie rods will force the toe in when car is lowered too much. Adjustable tie rod will correct the toe issue.

Haven't fit coilover and don't know how low you want to go but with my tein lower Spring oem shocker setup (-43mmF, -35mmR) I need rear camber arm to adjust the real wheel in other wise it drives feels and looks stupid.

I certainly have torqued checked on them. But you need to tight them again after a hot lap. Ps I think the kerb kissing will help with the loosen.

Thanks I'll need to buy some from them.

I got a pair of front aluminium wheel spacers, hub centric. The quality is good, comes with shinning aluminium nuts I think. Today after 4x15mins sessions track time, few of those nuts were halfway off. Luckily this didn't not happen during the track time but happened on my way home. With loose...