Camber bolts max negative camber

hondazzz

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As per title..what is the maximum negative camber you have succeed with eibach camber bolts? And what suspension?

I know they advertise a number + - 1.75 i think ,but i believe is a very generic one.

Also anyone had a problem with their camber bolts slip?
 

maxvr6

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Depends what other mods you have, without Buddy Club RCA's i could swear i was getting close to around 2.25


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hondazzz

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Well it does make some sense, as also what height you are set up..and possibly what struts/coilovers because maybe some of them have different designed lower bracket with relocated bolts' holes...

But lets say i was wondering what you can get on oem struts and eibach camber bolts..
 

maxvr6

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Well above is your answer then if nobody has experienced any different, the front suspension doesn't gain any camber under compression so the height shouldn't matter, that was with tanabe gf210 springs on oem shocks :)


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hondazzz

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maxvr6 said:
Well above is your answer then if nobody has experienced any different, the front suspension doesn't gain any camber under compression so the height shouldn't matter, that was with tanabe gf210 springs on oem shocks :)
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Well it supposed to gain some..but not a lot..but some. Anyway, Thats why i didnt add this in my initial question to keep things simple as i am coming from 2 sets of coilovers Teins and buddyclubs and am considering a setup with oem top mounts and wondering if camber bolts(1 per side) would give me ~ -1.5 degree
 

maxvr6

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I would think so, maybe use a camber bolt top and bottom to be sure


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Dan34

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Not a lot with MeisterR's, I slotted the top pinch bolt hole so I could achieve the camber I wanted.
 

donzooo

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Mine's were fitted professionaly and they maxed out at 1.2deg one side and wouldnt go any lower than 1.4 the other side.
 

maxvr6

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Donald_TSC said:
Mine's were fitted professionaly and they maxed out at 1.2deg one side and wouldnt go any lower than 1.4 the other side.
I think this is down to subframe alignment isnt it? Been told before that subframe/rigid collars can resolve this, i have them installed front and rear anyway.
 

hondazzz

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Dan34 said:
Not a lot with MeisterR's, I slotted the top pinch bolt hole so I could achieve the camber I wanted.
Well thats why i am wondering..if it doesnt give me enough camber i should save me the money for the bolts and slot the strut like my current suspension is (buddyclub n+)

But honestly i had enough issues suspension-wise that i was hopping camber bolts would give me 1.5degree because those are plug n play kind of mods
 

hondazzz

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maxvr6 said:
I think this is down to subframe alignment isnt it? Been told before that subframe/rigid collars can resolve this, i have them installed front and rear anyway.
Yes propably or something bent
 

Brecht

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using bilstein shocks and 2 camber bolts each side i could get more than -3°, got it set at -2,30° each side
 

hondazzz

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Brecht said:
using bilstein shocks and 2 camber bolts each side i could get more than -3°, got it set at -2,30° each side
thanks for your contribution mate
 

donzooo

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maxvr6 said:
I think this is down to subframe alignment isnt it? Been told before that subframe/rigid collars can resolve this, i have them installed front and rear anyway.
Yeah well my caster difference is quite large. Sitting just within tolerance on one side.
 

Rom

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maxvr6 said:
Well above is your answer then if nobody has experienced any different, the front suspension doesn't gain any camber under compression so the height shouldn't matter, that was with tanabe gf210 springs on oem shocks :)


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All suspension will camber under compression mate. If you think about the design, the wheel is travelling upwards, from a pivot point on the subframe. It cannot travel vertically unless the pivot point moved at the same time in the same direction. This would require the whole lower arm to move upwards, on a flat plane.
The wheel travels in an arc upwards, not vertically.

Camber under compression is very useful, as the time camber matters most, is cornering, so gaining camber during cornering is a benefit.

Donald_TSC said:
Yeah well my caster difference is quite large. Sitting just within tolerance on one side.
Whats the included angle mate ? Thats the quickest way to tell if something is bent. Should be on the printout. Ideally you want as little variance side to side as possible, anything much, and id be looking for damaged parts.



Camber bolts are largely useless in my experience. I could only get to -1 with mine. Its important to note, they probably include both adjustments in the spec figure. So if you can go -1 to +1, thats actually 2 degrees of adjustment. Its just one of those is completely unwanted by us.

I run oem bolts, with slotted top holes. I accidentally got -5 i think by undoing them too much! Obviously depends how much you elongate the hole.
 

hondazzz

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602
Rom said:
All suspension will camber under compression mate. If you think about the design, the wheel is travelling upwards, from a pivot point on the subframe. It cannot travel vertically unless the pivot point moved at the same time in the same direction. This would require the whole lower arm to move upwards, on a flat plane.
The wheel travels in an arc upwards, not vertically.

Camber under compression is very useful, as the time camber matters most, is cornering, so gaining camber during cornering is a benefit.



Whats the included angle mate ? Thats the quickest way to tell if something is bent. Should be on the printout. Ideally you want as little variance side to side as possible, anything much, and id be looking for damaged parts.



Camber bolts are largely useless in my experience. I could only get to -1 with mine. Its important to note, they probably include both adjustments in the spec figure. So if you can go -1 to +1, thats actually 2 degrees of adjustment. Its just one of those is completely unwanted by us.

I run oem bolts, with slotted top holes. I accidentally got -5 i think by undoing them too much! Obviously depends how much you elongate the hole.
I believe what he ment is that dc5 suspension does not gain a lot of camber under compression because of design..

Well i was hoping to reach -1.5 with camber bolts..it seems hard..especially with only a 15mm drop on this mcpherson designed platform that doesnt have a very good camber gain curve.. But since i dont feel like slotting a brand new suspension(my third actually..i think its time to stop experimenting) I will try the camber bolts and let you know what i got
 
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