Well it supposed to gain some..but not a lot..but some. Anyway, Thats why i didnt add this in my initial question to keep things simple as i am coming from 2 sets of coilovers Teins and buddyclubs and am considering a setup with oem top mounts and wondering if camber bolts(1 per side) would give me ~ -1.5 degreemaxvr6 said:Well above is your answer then if nobody has experienced any different, the front suspension doesn't gain any camber under compression so the height shouldn't matter, that was with tanabe gf210 springs on oem shocks
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I think this is down to subframe alignment isnt it? Been told before that subframe/rigid collars can resolve this, i have them installed front and rear anyway.Donald_TSC said:Mine's were fitted professionaly and they maxed out at 1.2deg one side and wouldnt go any lower than 1.4 the other side.
Well thats why i am wondering..if it doesnt give me enough camber i should save me the money for the bolts and slot the strut like my current suspension is (buddyclub n+)Dan34 said:Not a lot with MeisterR's, I slotted the top pinch bolt hole so I could achieve the camber I wanted.
Yes propably or something bentmaxvr6 said:I think this is down to subframe alignment isnt it? Been told before that subframe/rigid collars can resolve this, i have them installed front and rear anyway.
thanks for your contribution mateBrecht said:using bilstein shocks and 2 camber bolts each side i could get more than -3°, got it set at -2,30° each side
Yeah well my caster difference is quite large. Sitting just within tolerance on one side.maxvr6 said:I think this is down to subframe alignment isnt it? Been told before that subframe/rigid collars can resolve this, i have them installed front and rear anyway.
All suspension will camber under compression mate. If you think about the design, the wheel is travelling upwards, from a pivot point on the subframe. It cannot travel vertically unless the pivot point moved at the same time in the same direction. This would require the whole lower arm to move upwards, on a flat plane.maxvr6 said:Well above is your answer then if nobody has experienced any different, the front suspension doesn't gain any camber under compression so the height shouldn't matter, that was with tanabe gf210 springs on oem shocks
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Whats the included angle mate ? Thats the quickest way to tell if something is bent. Should be on the printout. Ideally you want as little variance side to side as possible, anything much, and id be looking for damaged parts.Donald_TSC said:Yeah well my caster difference is quite large. Sitting just within tolerance on one side.
I believe what he ment is that dc5 suspension does not gain a lot of camber under compression because of design..Rom said:All suspension will camber under compression mate. If you think about the design, the wheel is travelling upwards, from a pivot point on the subframe. It cannot travel vertically unless the pivot point moved at the same time in the same direction. This would require the whole lower arm to move upwards, on a flat plane.
The wheel travels in an arc upwards, not vertically.
Camber under compression is very useful, as the time camber matters most, is cornering, so gaining camber during cornering is a benefit.
Whats the included angle mate ? Thats the quickest way to tell if something is bent. Should be on the printout. Ideally you want as little variance side to side as possible, anything much, and id be looking for damaged parts.
Camber bolts are largely useless in my experience. I could only get to -1 with mine. Its important to note, they probably include both adjustments in the spec figure. So if you can go -1 to +1, thats actually 2 degrees of adjustment. Its just one of those is completely unwanted by us.
I run oem bolts, with slotted top holes. I accidentally got -5 i think by undoing them too much! Obviously depends how much you elongate the hole.