dc5 inner CV joint

[BenLAST]

Mine is in desperate need of this!

Now I've got a replacement aftermarket driverside EP3 shaft (which I had spare from years ago), and also with the car came a snapped driftshaft but the CV boots look like new.

Can someone run through the process for me?

I'm sure its my inner joint on the driverside causing the issue (although passenger side maybe be following suit). Whats the best way to remove the shaft initially, bottom ball joint off? and 36mm hub nut?

Then can I reuse the joints on the snapped shaft I have to rebuild the shaft on the car now? I will buy some new clamps and grease. What exactly needs mix matching together?

Need urgent help with this as i'm running it round Donnington in 2weeks! Thanks guys.

 

[hondamad2204]

The guy that did mine didn't take the hub off, just undid the nut, wheels on full lock and out it came after gently tapping it through wheel side and pulling from the engine side. Don't forget gearbox oil if you're doing passengers side

 

[BenLAST]

Will be only doing driverside this weekend as that's by far the worse for the knocking noise im getting. Good to know about not un-doing the balljoint, I only had my alignment done yesterday!

With regards to parts needed from my snapped shaft then, will it just be a case of removing the boot and removing the bearings then re-fitting to my current shaft? Soz for all the questions just want to know what Im doing fully before taking it apart!

 

[hondamad2204]

The aftermarket shaft you are thinking of using as a donor it won't fit! Definitely no chance, completely different size shaft. Has to be OEM ep3 to be interchangeable.

If a snapped oem shaft has good ends then yes it is a straight swap. Just new grease and boot clamps. Couple of quid on ebay .

Im reading through your post though as if the broken oem shaft only has boots and not joints? If it's complete at both ends then they will be a straight swap...

I YouTubed a video to see what's involved and its very straightforward, if you are doing like for like its just messy, but in my case it was the casing being pitted rather than bearings failing. It all pulls apart after removing circlips.

 

[BenLAST]

Aye they are complete ends, I just meant in the original post that the boots look brand new. New clamps and grease already ordered

Just found this link;
http://www.itr-dc5.com/forum/index.php?/topic/6545-rsx-workshop-manual/

Very handy, lifes a lot easier with diagrams :xgrin:

Once I have my shaft apart I will compare to the EP3 complete shaft I have spare to determine if its oem or aftermarket as I honestly don't know haha. Thanks for the help, i'll report back once it's done hopefully with good news!

 

[2ndy]

Just use the best parts of the 3 joints you have. Majority of the parts from the joints are all interchangeable with k series.. Even et a cheap cv joint kit and then you'll have new bearings etc to go into it

Take the too bolts out of the shock and try to do it without trying to remove the bottom ball joint as it's easy to damage them, and don't hit the arms with a hammer

 

[Crazylegs]

Can I ask a question as I've a feeling mine may need a replacement passenger side CV joint, not sure yet whether it's the outer or inner (or both) but it will be getting checked again in a few weeks.

Would I get away with replacing just the passenger side as that's where the noise is coming from, or would people recommend I replace the drivers side too at the same time? (Even though it seems ok)

 

[jown]

Sorry to revive an old thread, was reading this and Jimmer saved me buying a blueprint shaft (thank you)

Someone above mentioned that any K-series inner will fit, would this be any good?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medial-Joint-Set-Honda-Cr-v-II-RE3-4-Accord-CL-Cn-cm-Fr-V-Left-New/253428560540?epid=1341992198&hash=item3b0184f29c:g:woMAAOSwoudW7-dY

Thanks



Update -

Found the inner cv part number for an ep3 off lings

44310-SDA-A61

 

[hondamad2204]

Funnily enough I fitted a brand new oem inner CV to mine on Saturday.

Expensive but no worries with it not fitting / lasting only a year etc.

 

[jown]

Funnily enough I fitted a brand new oem inner CV to mine on Saturday.

Expensive but no worries with it not fitting / lasting only a year etc.

The one that I received was wrong, even the outer CV

I've managed to source another pair of DC5 driveshafts, only replaced the driver's side and I still feel a vibration from the right, does the intermittent shaft tend to go bad on these? Can that bearing be replaced?

Also, do you know if an oem ep3 intermittent one would fit?

Thanks

 

[hondamad2204]

Yes ep3 ones fit, and yes you can get the bearings. I‘d put money on it being the inner cv on the drivers side though. I‘ve had two previous used “good condition” ones and the runners on the inside were slightly worn. Only really see how worn when compared to brand new OEM. One of the best decisions ive made. Spent so many hours trying to stopping vibrations from driveshafts etc, new joints and be done with it.

Mfactory do a set for the DC5 however, They were my next point of call if I required them.

 

[jown]

Yes ep3 ones fit, and yes you can get the bearings. I‘d put money on it being the inner cv on the drivers side though. I‘ve had two previous used “good condition” ones and the runners on the inside were slightly worn. Only really see how worn when compared to brand new OEM. One of the best decisions ive made. Spent so many hours trying to stopping vibrations from driveshafts etc, new joints and be done with it.

Mfactory do a set for the DC5 however, They were my next point of call if I required them.

Thanks mate

Unsure if its related but I've not got a weight on my drivers side, even the replacement never had one but I see various ones for sale (some with and without weights)

We checked the inner cv and there was no play, although the outer cv was bad.. it was jammed and wouldn't come out had to smash it to bits then my replacement wouldn't fit so I managed to get the pair from someone local