Engine Check Light

[skengdR]

So my dc5 was in the garage for 2 weeks getting the underneath treated and all rust removed , some welding and repainting had to be done hence the 2 weeks.

I picked it up on Monday and drove about 1 hour to meet someone for a mugen rear strut bar . On the drive back home the engine check light came on and i couldnt rev it past 4000 (vtec activation point). I didnt bother to pull over as everything else seemed fine , when I got off the motorway I switched the car off and back on and the engine check light didnt come back on.

The car seems back to normal but Id appreciate any advice on anyone who has experience or has had this happen to them before.

Thanks in advance for any comments or help , because I am on a stock airbox intake I dont really hear the switchover so I am just assuming it is back to normal. I need to do a long pull in 3rd or 4th where I really feel the switchover but havent had the time or road to test it yet.

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[bxlheathsupra]

Where u based?.. you need to plug in an obd reader and retrieve the error code. Mine occasionally does it but tends to be the knock sensor although i dont end up in limp mode

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[skengdR]

Where u based?.. you need to plug in an obd reader and retrieve the error code. Mine occasionally does it but tends to be the knock sensor although i dont end up in limp mode

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aylesbury , buckinghamshire

the light hasnt come back on since monday ,can i still get the error code ?

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[bxlheathsupra]

Should do they usually store past codes

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[Johngreen537]

Mine comes on now and then if the battery a little low.

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[skengdR]

Mine comes on now and then if the battery a little low.

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hmm I hope thats the case and I do have an amplifier .

Ill still get the error code reading as soon as I can and let you guys know the findings.

Thanks for the help so far

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[Grano]

You say Vtec is 4000rpm...do you have K-pro?

 

[skengdR]

You say Vtec is 4000rpm...do you have K-pro?

yes K100

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[Crazylegs]

I'd try and get the code or take it to a decent mapper such as Chris at EFI Parts, Runcorn or Romain.

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[skengdR]

I'd try and get the code or take it to a decent mapper such as Chris at EFI Parts, Runcorn or Romain.

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just googled the drive and its about 3.5 hrs , thanks for the suggestion but that is too far for me

remapping is in the plans though , I think 4000 is too early for the activation point . I plan to get it remapped after i get an intake which should be in a month or two

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[Crazylegs]

Chris is excellent but he's a very busy guy so I'd advise you book well in advance. It's worth the trip though. My engine is super smooth now and engages VTEC much smoother than before with a much better power delivery.

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[Fez]

When mine was on k100 for a week or so this happened to mine and the code was for vtec pressure switch iirc. I Just reset ecu and it would be fine till next day. Since being on kpro its not done it.

 

[skengdR]

Had a mechanic check it with a code reader today and nothing has come up . He checked the engine bay and could only find a lose battery terminal , he said this could have possibly caused it .

I am not sure what to think , I guess I will keep monitoring it for now .

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[bxlheathsupra]

Loose plwer connections cab trigger all sorts of issues

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[skengdR]

Loose plwer connections cab trigger all sorts of issues

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to be fair the engine bay and wires do need a massive tidy up . the previous owner had electrical tape by the bonnet holder rod because it comes so close to the battery terminal

so who knows

I am going to order a new bonnet rod today

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[bxlheathsupra]

Get gas struts... so much tidier

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[skengdR]

ok more dramas with my dc5 this afternoon , I finished work and go to start the car and it wouldnt turn over. Got a jump start and the engine check light is back with weird idling smells very rich .

The funny thing with the engine check light now is the temperature gauge isnt working , its just below the C mark as if the car hasnt started . I let it run for 10 mins and drove home another 10 mins and it still hasnt moved .

The mechanic at my work place thinks it is probably the battery that needs replacing and then take it from there , what do you guys think ?

Also , ive had the car for about 3 months now and the starter has made that sneezing sound quite a lot . I bought a starter since the first week I heard the sneeze but havent installed it yet , do you think its worth changing the starter ?

Or should I change the battery first then see what happens ? Also for the battery should I order a genuine from Cox or does anyone know anywhere else I can get a battery from ?

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[skengdR]

Just an update , the car seems back to normal and I havent had the engine check light since getting the jump start.

I ordered a battery from cox as i suspect this one is on its last legs.

Ill keep everyone posted , thanks for the help

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