Fast, but strange corner feel + torque steer

JDM-DC5

Advanced Member
Messages
147
I know the bushings are worn. Wether that will solve it I don't know yet. But my settings are more or less 1 degree negative all round. I get oem bushings today and fitted this week sometime
 

spooke

Advanced Member
Messages
1,392
JDM-DC5 said:
I know the bushings are worn. Wether that will solve it I don't know yet. But my settings are more or less 1 degree negative all round. I get oem bushings today and fitted this week sometime
I'd increase front camber to at least -1.50'/-2.00', as long as your rear camber is less than the front it should be ok. What about your toe? zero toe up front works great and helps a lot with getting rid of vague steering, rear should be toe in around 0.20'. That is pretty much what I'm running atm and it feels the best it ever has done.
 

JDM-DC5

Advanced Member
Messages
147
spooke said:
I'd increase front camber to at least -1.50'/-2.00', as long as your rear camber is less than the front it should be ok. What about your toe? zero toe up front works great and helps a lot with getting rid of vague steering, rear should be toe in around 0.20'. That is pretty much what I'm running atm and it feels the best it ever has done.
Camber bolts being fitted tomorrow. Will I set them full toward car or away from car. The max I could get was 1 degree camber before running out of thread for zero toe at front. So wondering what direction I should have camber bolt or standard bolt positioned in the adjustable slot as there's play in there? Hope I'm making sense. My last d2s were tightened away from the coilover on both. Bushings fitted. No difference. Throwing money at it now.
 

spooke

Advanced Member
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1,392
JDM-DC5 said:
Camber bolts being fitted tomorrow. Will I set them full toward car or away from car. The max I could get was 1 degree camber before running out of thread for zero toe at front. So wondering what direction I should have camber bolt or standard bolt positioned in the adjustable slot as there's play in there? Hope I'm making sense. My last d2s were tightened away from the coilover on both. Bushings fitted. No difference. Throwing money at it now.
Fair enough, I think even with camber bolts you will run out of thread but that's probably from your low ride height. Personally I'd set them away from the coilover so you retain the OEM KPI angle, I don't know how much the small slot changes it by though! But as long as both sides match I don't think it matters too much.
 

JDM-DC5

Advanced Member
Messages
147
spooke said:
Fair enough, I think even with camber bolts you will run out of thread but that's probably from your low ride height. Personally I'd set them away from the coilover so you retain the OEM KPI angle, I don't know how much the small slot changes it by though! But as long as both sides match I don't think it matters too much.
Yea I'll match the d2 coilovers which were set away from coilover and had no issues with them other than badly worn top mounts so opted for new meister r. Nothing but problems trying to get it to handle right now. And with the d2s the car was lower than it is now! I will just let then get as much camber as they can while keeping zero toe. Toe at rear is set to zero as well. Bump steer is soo annoying. B roads aren't enjoyable at all
 

spooke

Advanced Member
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1,392
JDM-DC5 said:
Yea I'll match the d2 coilovers which were set away from coilover and had no issues with them other than badly worn top mounts so opted for new meister r. Nothing but problems trying to get it to handle right now. And with the d2s the car was lower than it is now! I will just let then get as much camber as they can while keeping zero toe. Toe at rear is set to zero as well. Bump steer is soo annoying. B roads aren't enjoyable at all
You really want some toe in on the rear, it will help with stability. I did find my car to drive poorly after fitting coilovers but after a few geometry changes and a few aiding mods it drives pretty good now - waiting to get some AD08R's before I give a final verdict as atm my tyres are jelly :D

Hope you can get yours sorted!
 

moodyedge

Advanced Member
Messages
274
I find it bizzare that when speaking to tgm about the bump steer issues that plague these cars.....they denied all knowledge of any such issues..........pardon?

True story.
 

Lewis.mac

Advanced Member
Messages
396
I too have meister CRD+

But have a very different set up to you guys,

MeisterR CRD+
Full front and rear polybush
Buddyclub roll centre adjusters
SHG rack slider
Shortened adjustable solid tie rods
Hardrace rear control arms
225 Re070 tyres 31psi front 29psi rear

Geo
Front. -2.50
Toe. 0

Rear. -1.5
Toe(in) 0.15

Coilovers set
20 clicks front
30 clicks rear

I dont suffer with any bumpsteer, torque steer or any of the problems said above.

Yes its a harsh ride, but its not my daily. Feels very stable in the corners,

Only things stopping more grip id say is my tyres now.
I have new wheels on the way for 235 or 245front set up on 8.5's, possibly try Ad08r this time around
 

spooke

Advanced Member
Messages
1,392
Here is my current setup,

MeisterR CRD+ 8/12KG
SHG Slider
Hardrace Camber Arms

225/215 AD08R F/R 31psi front 31psi rear

Geo
Front. -1.32'
Toe. 0

Rear. -1.05'
Toe(in) 0.24'

Coilovers set
17 clicks front

18 clicks rear

It feels pretty predictable, only just had the tyres fitted and haven't driven it much since but even with some crappy eco tyres the chassis still felt "good", the tyres have made a huge difference though!
 

Tuneboy

Advanced Member
Messages
109
Well, big update at my car.

I installed:

-Complete Poly Urethane bushes
-SHG Rack slider
-Rear Pillowball Camberarms
-Hardrace inverted tie rod ends
-Buddyclub RCAs

I did a alignment after that:

Front -2.00'
Toe -0,07'

Rear -1,1'
Toe 0.10'

MeisterR CRD+
Front 8
Rear 10

Federal 595

Well and i have to say i really HATE how it handles. My steeringarms are nearly parallel now, thanks to the inverted tie rod ends, but its pulling all over the place, its scary. If i overtake on a B-Road: I let of the gas while shifting because i cant hold the steering wheel steady with one arm. This happens on a flat road (Torquesteer) and on a Bumpyroad (Bumpsteer). And i dont know how to cure that.
I spend 900€ fot all these parts so that i get rid of that handling and after installing all that parts above, its not an inch better, maybe its even worse :(
 

Reggie91

Advanced Member
Messages
1,280
You're running a decent amount of camber on the front and assuming you're running wider wheels (8j on a 225?). I think they both will contribute to the car tramlining and finding grooves on the road. Your set up will probably be more at home on track haha.
 

Tuneboy

Advanced Member
Messages
109
Reggie91 said:
You're running a decent amount of camber on the front and assuming you're running wider wheels (8j on a 225?). I think they both will contribute to the car tramlining and finding grooves on the road. Your set up will probably be more at home on track haha.
8,5J with 235

Its more track oriented but still, im not sure if it handles right :/
 

MeisterR

Member
Messages
344
Inverted tie rod end makes bump steer worst, it should be avoided.
This is especially true for cars with LSD.

The only thing I have heard about was getting a steering rack raiser and install it upside down.
That way the entire rack get lower along with the inverted track rod end.
I haven't try this before, I just heard about it. I have no understanding of it's merit.

The steering geometry of the EP3 / DC5 always been a bit odd.
But I will look into that track rod as I got a feeling that is where your main problem are located.

Jerrick
 

Reggie91

Advanced Member
Messages
1,280
Tuneboy said:
8,5J with 235

Its more track oriented but still, im not sure if it handles right :/
I think that might be the cause mate. Im running 9j with 245 and its all over the place when on a crappy road. A set up like yours probably isn't the best for the B roads.
 

spooke

Advanced Member
Messages
1,392
Tuneboy said:
Well, big update at my car.
To update, I'm currently running the following which over rough road isn't perfect but it is far far from feeling dangerous - on a smooth road it is really nice to drive. As Jerrick said it's the combination of rack raiser and inverted track rods - the steering arm geometry is now "bad" and causing your handling issues.

MeisterR CRD+ 8/12KG
SHG Slider
Hardrace Camber Arms

225-8J/215-7J AD08R F/R 31psi front 31psi rear

Geo
Front. -2.00'
Toe. 0

Rear. -1.30'
Toe(in) 0.24'

Coilovers set
10 clicks front
14 clicks rear
 

Fez

Advanced Member
Messages
1,441
I've got over 2° of camber on the front, with 235 tyres and its not that bad, get shot of the inverted track rods/raiser and try again.
 

Tuneboy

Advanced Member
Messages
109
But before the track rods, when the car was lowered, it acted the same. Not sure ifs because of that
 
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