I'd increase front camber to at least -1.50'/-2.00', as long as your rear camber is less than the front it should be ok. What about your toe? zero toe up front works great and helps a lot with getting rid of vague steering, rear should be toe in around 0.20'. That is pretty much what I'm running atm and it feels the best it ever has done.JDM-DC5 said:I know the bushings are worn. Wether that will solve it I don't know yet. But my settings are more or less 1 degree negative all round. I get oem bushings today and fitted this week sometime
Camber bolts being fitted tomorrow. Will I set them full toward car or away from car. The max I could get was 1 degree camber before running out of thread for zero toe at front. So wondering what direction I should have camber bolt or standard bolt positioned in the adjustable slot as there's play in there? Hope I'm making sense. My last d2s were tightened away from the coilover on both. Bushings fitted. No difference. Throwing money at it now.spooke said:I'd increase front camber to at least -1.50'/-2.00', as long as your rear camber is less than the front it should be ok. What about your toe? zero toe up front works great and helps a lot with getting rid of vague steering, rear should be toe in around 0.20'. That is pretty much what I'm running atm and it feels the best it ever has done.
Fair enough, I think even with camber bolts you will run out of thread but that's probably from your low ride height. Personally I'd set them away from the coilover so you retain the OEM KPI angle, I don't know how much the small slot changes it by though! But as long as both sides match I don't think it matters too much.JDM-DC5 said:Camber bolts being fitted tomorrow. Will I set them full toward car or away from car. The max I could get was 1 degree camber before running out of thread for zero toe at front. So wondering what direction I should have camber bolt or standard bolt positioned in the adjustable slot as there's play in there? Hope I'm making sense. My last d2s were tightened away from the coilover on both. Bushings fitted. No difference. Throwing money at it now.
Yea I'll match the d2 coilovers which were set away from coilover and had no issues with them other than badly worn top mounts so opted for new meister r. Nothing but problems trying to get it to handle right now. And with the d2s the car was lower than it is now! I will just let then get as much camber as they can while keeping zero toe. Toe at rear is set to zero as well. Bump steer is soo annoying. B roads aren't enjoyable at allspooke said:Fair enough, I think even with camber bolts you will run out of thread but that's probably from your low ride height. Personally I'd set them away from the coilover so you retain the OEM KPI angle, I don't know how much the small slot changes it by though! But as long as both sides match I don't think it matters too much.
You really want some toe in on the rear, it will help with stability. I did find my car to drive poorly after fitting coilovers but after a few geometry changes and a few aiding mods it drives pretty good now - waiting to get some AD08R's before I give a final verdict as atm my tyres are jellyJDM-DC5 said:Yea I'll match the d2 coilovers which were set away from coilover and had no issues with them other than badly worn top mounts so opted for new meister r. Nothing but problems trying to get it to handle right now. And with the d2s the car was lower than it is now! I will just let then get as much camber as they can while keeping zero toe. Toe at rear is set to zero as well. Bump steer is soo annoying. B roads aren't enjoyable at all
8,5J with 235Reggie91 said:You're running a decent amount of camber on the front and assuming you're running wider wheels (8j on a 225?). I think they both will contribute to the car tramlining and finding grooves on the road. Your set up will probably be more at home on track haha.
I think that might be the cause mate. Im running 9j with 245 and its all over the place when on a crappy road. A set up like yours probably isn't the best for the B roads.Tuneboy said:8,5J with 235
Its more track oriented but still, im not sure if it handles right :/
To update, I'm currently running the following which over rough road isn't perfect but it is far far from feeling dangerous - on a smooth road it is really nice to drive. As Jerrick said it's the combination of rack raiser and inverted track rods - the steering arm geometry is now "bad" and causing your handling issues.Tuneboy said:Well, big update at my car.
What offset are your wheels?Tuneboy said:But before the track rods, when the car was lowered, it acted the same. Not sure ifs because of that
The offset not widthTuneboy said:8,5j