Fast Road Setup

[Bikerz]

I hear you guys talking about it......

What are the stock settings for a DC5?
How does a FRSU differ?

THANKS

 

[RE Spirit]

Hi,

Some topics here that you might find useful:

http://www.itr-dc5.com/forum/index.php?/topic/34696-fast-road-track-set-up/?hl=%2Bfast+%2Broad+%2Bsetup#entry337402

http://www.itr-dc5.com/forum/index.php?/topic/26316-fast-road-setup/?hl=%2Bfast+%2Broad+%2Bsetup

HTH
Jono

 

[Bikerz]

Cheers

Seems 1 - 1.5 Negative camber about right
Rear Toe out maybe 0.1

 

[truupR]

I'd like some clarification as well - I can only see REAR camber arms for sale and front camber bolts? does that mean FRSU is done with only the rear arms and front bolts :S I would of thought that you'd need a set of front arms or something similar aswell? really don't understand it

 

[newyorkaddict]

I'd like some clarification as well - I can only see REAR camber arms for sale and front camber bolts? does that mean FRSU is done with only the rear arms and front bolts :S I would of thought that you'd need a set of front arms or something similar aswell? really don't understand it



You're right about the arms and bolts. The bolts in the front usually go to about 1.5 degree Max, you wouldn't want much more than that on the front as it would unsettle the car massively. The arms in the rear are due to the non tuneable ones that tie the hub to the rest of the car. Some of these arms can go very negative if needed, but most people run between 1&2 degrees depending on how loose you like the car.

 

[truupR]

You're right about the arms and bolts. The bolts in the front usually go to about 1.5 degree Max, you wouldn't want much more than that on the front as it would unsettle the car massively. The arms in the rear are due to the non tuneable ones that tie the hub to the rest of the car. Some of these arms can go very negative if needed, but most people run between 1&2 degrees depending on how loose you like the car.

ah ok this is good news then! I have seen in the past some skunk 2 FRONT camber arms or something along those lines which were around the £150/£200 mark iirc. I was starting to think the whole FRSU was going to cost nearer the £400+ mark all in if both front AND rear arms were needed. Thanks for the clarification!

 

[Alien]

I have some Eibach front bolts and rear camber arms for sale if you're interested.

 

[Crazylegs]

Mine's going into Stevie at Grinspeed in Leyland next Thursday for Eibach adjustable rear arms, Eibach front bolts and a full FRSU so I'll let post up my settings.

I was actually thinking of starting a thread about what settings are best for an FRSU however I'm going to let Steve do the work and see what setting he recommends.

 

[newyorkaddict]

You're right about the arms and bolts. The bolts in the front usually go to about 1.5 degree Max, you wouldn't want much more than that on the front as it would unsettle the car massively. The arms in the rear are due to the non tuneable ones that tie the hub to the rest of the car. Some of these arms can go very negative if needed, but most people run between 1&2 degrees depending on how loose you like the car.


ah ok this is good news then! I have seen in the past some skunk 2 FRONT camber arms or something along those lines which were around the £150/£200 mark iirc. I was starting to think the whole FRSU was going to cost nearer the £400+ mark all in if both front AND rear arms were needed. Thanks for the clarification!

I think the yanks run bolts top and bottom to get the extra camber needed for their stance, as the cars they drive are slammed, there are more issues concerning scrubbing etc. using the top and bottom bolts allows more camber to be added meaning less suspension issues.

 

[newyorkaddict]

Mine's going into Stevie at Grinspeed in Leyland next Thursday for Eibach adjustable rear arms, Eibach front bolts and a full FRSU so I'll let post up my settings.

I was actually thinking of starting a thread about what settings are best for an FRSU however I'm going to let Steve do the work and see what setting he recommends.



Steve at EightSpeed recommended 1 degree camber on the front and 1.5 on the back, with 0.3mm toe in on the front to aid cornering. I know Dotty was running 2 degree so n the rear for a short while due to scrubbing when he was at the ring, not sure if he's still using that though, he did mention it made the car quite twitchy going straight, but it cornered superb. When I drove his car, it felt so planted compared to mine, I had a lot more confidence to keep my foot in on the corners.

 

[Crazylegs]

Steve at EightSpeed recommended 1 degree camber on the front and 1.5 on the back, with 0.3mm toe in on the front to aid cornering. I know Dotty was running 2 degree so n the rear for a short while due to scrubbing when he was at the ring, not sure if he's still using that though, he did mention it made the car quite twitchy going straight, but it cornered superb. When I drove his car, it felt so planted compared to mine, I had a lot more confidence to keep my foot in on the corners.

Thanks for this info mate,

I'll note those settings down before I head there on Thursday but will highly likely go with what Stevie recommends. I've never driven a car with adjustable camber before so it's going to be a new experience for me.

Will the fast road set up help to eliminate the tram-lining that we often get in a straight line, also when attacking roundabouts and bends quite hard mine sometimes feels as though the back of the car is trying to make its way to the front, will it help to eliminate this kind of feeling too?

 

[newyorkaddict]

Steve at EightSpeed recommended 1 degree camber on the front and 1.5 on the back, with 0.3mm toe in on the front to aid cornering. I know Dotty was running 2 degree so n the rear for a short while due to scrubbing when he was at the ring, not sure if he's still using that though, he did mention it made the car quite twitchy going straight, but it cornered superb. When I drove his car, it felt so planted compared to mine, I had a lot more confidence to keep my foot in on the corners.


Thanks for this info mate,

I'll note those settings down before I head there on Thursday but will highly likely go with what Stevie recommends. I've never driven a car with adjustable camber before so it's going to be a new experience for me.

Will the fast road set up help to eliminate the tram-lining that we often get in a straight line, also when attacking roundabouts and bends quite hard mine sometimes feels as though the back of the car is trying to make its way to the front, will it help to eliminate this kind of feeling too?

I think it depends on how aggressive you go. The tram-lining feeling should hopefully disappear. As for the back end, the standard set up can be quite loose so it should feel less like its trying to spin on you as the camber will make it more planted.
Oh and the toe in I said, it should be toe OUT, this makes the inner front wheel to the corner start turning in sooner.
Stevie will see you good from what I've read, let him set it up, drive it for a while, and if you want it more or less aggressive, it's a lot simpler now as you'll have the bolts and arms on. Best of luck with it all.

 

[Crazylegs]

I think it depends on how aggressive you go. The tram-lining feeling should hopefully disappear. As for the back end, the standard set up can be quite loose so it should feel less like its trying to spin on you as the camber will make it more planted.
Oh and the toe in I said, it should be toe OUT, this makes the inner front wheel to the corner start turning in sooner.
Stevie will see you good from what I've read, let him set it up, drive it for a while, and if you want it more or less aggressive, it's a lot simpler now as you'll have the bolts and arms on. Best of luck with it all.

Sounds good that mate, as long as it helps to get rid of some of these feelings then I'll be more than happy with the outcome I'm sure.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[beppe786]

Mine is 2 mm toe out on the front.. 1 mm toe in at back. 1.5mm all around camber

 

[Crazylegs]

Cheers Beppe.

How do you find that on yours with those settings, what's the turn in and handling like is it much better than standard? Is yours a daily driver and do you do any trackdays at all?

 

[beppe786]

Daily drive its turns great and grips like shit on a blanket in the dry with re070

 

[Crazylegs]

Nice mate! Can't wait to get mine done, may just have to take it for a blast up the EVO triangle on Friday and test it out ha ha!

 

[plugg]

This might be bit if a silly question but can you get the FRSU done without getting lowering springs? and if so would it be as good?

 

[Crazylegs]

Yes you can, you can leave the standard OEM suspension and still get adjustable front bolts and rear arms and still get the FRSU.

 

[plugg]

That's good then as I like the ride height as it is. I made the mistake of lowering my dc2 and hated it so put it back to standard asap so didn't want to make the same mistake again