Fitting Buddyclub RCAs - Roll Center Adjusters

Rom

Advanced Member
Messages
1,739
Im not sure how much use this will be to people, but i couldnt see one on here.

Ill start by saying, this is doable DIY, but you need a vice really. You could try another method of getting the RCA in, but short of hitting it in, i cant think of any, other than vice and press.

Again, im going to assume you know the basics, can get the wheels off etc. And that you have basic tools. Ill list anything important.

36mm Socket for Hub Nut
22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, 10mm sockets
Hammer
Impact Driver, or decent Phillips to remove disc screws.
Pipe Clamp and brake bleeder (these arent needed but save time in my opinion)
Ball joint separator (I dont use these, as they normally damage boots, a short sharp whack normally frees them)

Ok, so jack the car up, on stands, front wheels off.



You have a choice here. Either remove the pads, caliper, and disc, leaving the caliper connected to the pipe.
Or they way i did it, as im sure my pads wont come out easy, pins will be stuck etc. You can clamp and remove the fluid line, and leave the caliper with the pads on the disc. Just remove it as one unit.
Calipers 2 17mm, pipe is 14mm
Disc needs something to free the phillips retaining screw.





From here we move to the bottom ball joint and drop link.
So remove the split pin, then its a 19mm for the balljoint. A 14mm for drop link.
Here you either need to use a balljoint separator, or give the bottom arm a sharp whack to split the joint.





Theres a 10mm holding the ABS sensor in, which i failed to get a picture of. But its on the back of the hub, where the drive shaft goes in.

Undo the 36mm Hub Nut. Now i used an air gun, if you dont have one, your options are as follows.
Wheel cap off, crack it off before you jack the car up.
Wedge brake pedal down, crack off before you remove brakes.
Place a bar between 2 wheel studs against the floor, crack off.
You need to bend the little tab out where its been punched in, before you undo it.



The drive shaft may need a little tap to get it to free off. Just get it so it will slide, you can leave it fitted for now.

Remove the shock bolts, theses are 22mm with 19mm nuts.
Also remove the brake pipe hose, think it was 12mm.






You should now be able to lift the whole hub off the shaft, leaving it looking like this



This is where the vice comes in.
Put the hub in the vice



Here ive already removed the ball joint. I hit mine out, as they wont be reused, so no concern of damage. Basically just whack the threaded part (i fitted the nut but wont matter) Mine took 3-4 hits and it popped out.

I cleaned up the edges with some emery cloth, but this is just my nature.

New joints are pretty



You need to find something to fit over the balljoint. A socket, bit of tubing, scaffold might fit.



It needs to fit over the joint, but sit against the hub



Now get the vice open wide, and place the hub in like this. You will benefit from a second pair of hands, but you can do solo. Obviously you need the bit of metal in here too, over the balljoint, but i only have 2 hands!



I put a bit of flat plate between the vice and the back of the balljoint. But again, not needed, i just had it to hand. You want to wind the vice in now, the joint will press in quite easily and smoothly. One hand was enough to do the vice up the whole time. It will push until its sat flush, and end up looking like this.



Now just put it all back together again...and do the other side!

Hopefully this helps someone, or at least shows whats involved if you have to take it somewhere to have it done.
 

gaza4

Advanced Member
Messages
419
Jimmer said:
How long did this take Chris? Just trying to gauge a rough idea. :)

Cheers
i've taken of my hub before and that took no more than half an hour. so add on another 15ish mins maybe to remove and install the new balljoint and than another 20-30 mins to reinstall everything??? in saying that, my hub nut and balljoint nut were both very co-operative so it could take a lot longer!!!
 

Rom

Advanced Member
Messages
1,739
Jimmer said:
How long did this take Chris? Just trying to gauge a rough idea. :)

Cheers
I'd allow at least an hour a side mate. Unless everything falls apart!
My hubs were really tight, also more if on the floor!

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk
 

hondamad2204

Advanced Member
Messages
3,832
Patch_teg said:
Are you considering these on your setup?
Not necessarily these, but think mine need replacing in general.

Unsure if I would benifit from these or standard replacements (from a Prelude) with my current setup. Although having daid that, Chris you're on Spoons...are they alright with your setup? Standard tie rods etc?
 

hondamad2204

Advanced Member
Messages
3,832
Rom said:
I'd allow at least an hour a side mate. Unless everything falls apart!
My hubs were really tight, also more if on the floor!

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk
Ok thanks, will see if i can get my car to ramp it up. :)
 

CW05TEG

Advanced Member
Messages
122
Just a couple of points I would add to this based on having done ball joints on my old ep3 a few times:

1. Little trick is put the balljoint in a freezer overnight to shrink the OD. It should then slide straight in but it's worth heating the hub a little to help it.

2. Do not buy cheap motor factor balljoints as the rubbers will not last (this is from 1st hand experience). You will fail an MOT for a split balljoint boot so will end up doing them again a year later. If you don't want to use BC RCA's, try Meyle heavy duty alternatives.
 

GIBLETS

Advanced Member
Messages
311
Looking to resolve my concerns over slightly perished balljoint boots in the summer by replacing them and this guide has been great, wasn't sure if you could get them out and back in without a hydraulic press so will be more than happy to tackle this myself now 🙂

Does anyone know of any OEM balljoints that fit the DC5?

Read that BB6 Prelude ball joints fit, can anyone confirm that this is the case and also provide part numbers?

Got a price from Cox for replacement rubber boots at £30 per side which is daylight robbery!
 

Shiro_DC5

Member
Messages
49
Mine failed mot today for excessive play in nearside balljoint. The garage doing the mot are quoting over 500 spacebucks (and 3 week leadtime) just for a replacement knuckle with the included balljoint... excluding labour. Tried to call AREA but no one's answering. Someone really needs to confirm if Prelude ones fit for definite and then add it to a sticky or the FAQ.
I find it extremely bizarre that these aren't available on their own!?
 

GIBLETS

Advanced Member
Messages
311
Shiro_DC5 said:
Mine failed mot today for excessive play in nearside balljoint. The garage doing the mot are quoting over 500 spacebucks (and 3 week leadtime) just for a replacement knuckle with the included balljoint... excluding labour. Tried to call AREA but no one's answering. Someone really needs to confirm if Prelude ones fit for definite and then add it to a sticky or the FAQ.
I find it extremely bizarre that these aren't available on their own!?
Exactly what I fear happening in the future mate!

Found these on eBay but not sure they'll fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300723101834

Other option is to have new steel taper bushes pressed into the bottom arms with a taper to suit EP3 ball joints, or fit buddy club rca's as many have on here with success. The only issue I have with the RCA's is I intend on running standard ride height and this would muck the geometry up.

I'm tempted to go down the route of getting my hands on a spare hub with a worn out ball joint to try and find a solution, just everyone seems to want a fortune for them, even the worn out knackered ones!

Be great if you could keep us posted on what you end up doing if you do try the BB6 joints, would give it a go in mine but would then render the car useless if they didn't fit....
 

Shiro_DC5

Member
Messages
49
I think I'll just scrap the car. :p
my plan A is to get AREA motorsport to fit BC RCA's. I'm assuming they are out at the Civic Cup this weekend hence not answering the phone. While I have done this sort of work myself on previous cars I'm just so full of CBA these days. I have Coilovers but am lowered a minimal amount because my driveway entry was designed by morons and i was grounding the midsection with eibach prokits on standard shocks. I've read enough opinions on them suggesting they'd be okay on non-lowered cars as well. Failing that, I'll just lower the car more and move house. Drastic times...
Once i've spoken to them I'll be tempted to purchase a cheap prelude one as well just to offer it up while they're at it. and get some proof.
 

GIBLETS

Advanced Member
Messages
311
Great stuff, I've put a post up in the wanted section in the hope of putting my hands on a worn out OEM balljoint so I can compare the two. If the BB6 Prelude items don't fit I'll try one of the larger motor factors to compare and hopefully identify a compatible option....
 

Shiro_DC5

Member
Messages
49
I refuse to believe they had a brand-new-never-before-seen-special-edition ball joint commissioned specially, just so Integra owners could go that bit faster round corners than civic owners.
On the other hand, I massively respect the lengths Honda goes to for performance... just so Integra owners can go that bit faster round corners than civic owners...
 
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