HSD MonoPro Coilovers

[badeshi]

Morning, so have had another play. completely removed any hint of preload now... springs held in place but can still spin...

initially I thought it was a bit better but maybe I was just hoping as still quite teeth rattling if I am being honest...

Played with the adjusters - while jacked up they both can rotate but when weight is back on wheel they are stuck!

Drivers side was worse
https://goo.gl/photos/LeXTtXjujhMf2nGr8

you can see when jacked up there is a little gap which allows it to spin
https://goo.gl/photos/sFMe8H9hiJsUUDVP7

The top of the adjuster is scratched up now as I forced it round with a pair of pliers hoping it would give enough gap...


This is how I adjusted the height, going on what HSD helpdesk told me
https://goo.gl/photos/fL89pWcrwwyGBVBF6

loosened the green perches/collars (Pink and Blue)
Then unwound the centre of the shock out of the black bottom... This was a bugger to do by poking fingers through the spring and rotating but eventually worked...

I am wondering if it also wound up into the car somehow? that would explain how the adjusters have got higher? and maybe I have now somehow reduced travel while raising?

only thing I can think of now is to completely remove them both, reset and reinstall... but I have spent so long messing around the last 2 weeks I am loathe to do it!

any thoughts/help much appreciated!

 

[Wingnuttzz]

Crickey, those pictures of the rear dampening adjusters don't look right at all, I can't remember how close they were but certainly they were never that close before...

C&S Evo 7 - The rear height is adjusted by winding in and out the bottom of the shock (black bit inside the spring) from the shock body. At the same time this also moves the spring preload adjusters so the preload needs to be reset when the height is adjusted.

 

[badeshi]

I think rather than lengthening the shock I was just winding it into those black cups in the boot. And only when they reached the topvwould the shock start to lenghthen....

Do u think those brass coloured washers should be in the black housing?

It is so annoying there is no documentation!

 

[MeisterR]

Okay, lets start with what you have then we can move on.

Bounce - Few possibility:
Under damped, over damped, high compression cracking pressure

1. Under damped: When you have high springs rate, but you are trying to keep compliancy so you soften the damping.
Once you go too soft on the damping (typically under 40% of critical rebound), the damper will fail to control the springs oscillation, and that is when you get the type of floaty feeling

2. Over damped: When you run too much damping for the road surfaces, and basically you are failing to get traction.
Think if your wheel are "skipping" oven even road surfaces.

The above 2 you normally can adjust the damper to find something in the middle… Not always but you have a good chance.

3. High compression cracking pressure: This is the point where the damper starts to "move".
A lot of motorsport damper are made with high cracking pressure because it want to give you that sharp turn in feel.
The down side to that is if you drive over lumpy road the damper will not move at all and therefore it feels like you are sitting on a pogo stick.
This however don't really have a fix as that is the design of the shims stack on the piston… so if it is harsh from high cracking pressure… you are pretty much stuck.

Let me know a little more about what you are feeling, and I'll do what I can to recommend you.

--------------------

Next… on to MeisterR because I do feel like we need to get somethings in the clear.

Please don't bunch us together with D2, Ksport, BC, HSD, blah blah blah.
Yes, our entry level Zeta are made oversea… I am not going to lie about that fact.
However, there is absolutely nothing wrong with that because the material we specify are of high tolerance, and the damper are build to a high tolerance.

We had a discussion like this before on another forum, and basically it boils down to NOTHING is wrong.
The tube we use are CDS (Cold Drawn Seamless Mechanical Tube) EN10305-1, the correct grade of tube to use for the damper body.
​The tolerance when we measure a tube over 190mm body had an internal deviation of 7 micron, as precision as you really could get it.
MeisterR damper valving are engineered and specified by us taking input from our UK R&D technical partner.
Even our new damper have a locking collar system that we engineered and have a UK patent pending status.

So just like to bring it out to the open that if you think MeisterR is BC or D2 or Ksport or anything else with a different colour…. MeisterR is not.
MeisterR always had our own spec and are different, the new ZetaCRD+ takes everything even one step further than that.

Jerrick

 

[badeshi]

Thanks for the reply,

I am fairly sure that when I unwound the centre of the shock out of the bottom boot it simply wound up into the upper cup, reducing travel and therefore introducing the mad bumping! I guess I was hitting the bumpstops constantly..

I unwound them again last night and saw that the centre part had def gone upwards... I didnt have much time but had a quick play and it seems that if I keep the spring tight and then unwind the centre doesnt seem to go up and rather extends the shock?

- Anyway thats what I hope will happen as the car is now super low with the arches resting on the tyres! so I need to do something ASAP

worse case scenario I will try dialing up the spring pressure to get the tyres up a little then drive to a garage or somewhere with axle stands so I can try taking them out!

 

[badeshi]

ok, so just to conclude this mission - the car is now slightly raised, no rubbing and ride quality is back to normal!!!

I found that it is possible to adjust height of this type of coilover while on the car but would be easier to remove or at least remove the bottom bolt and unwind the lower cup that way... the main thing is to keep the spring tight so it pushes the shock apart and makes sure the distance changes without the shock eating up suspension travel.


Anyway, for anyone else wanting to do this, I could not find any clear information or diagrams anywhere... HSD were quick to respond but quite unclear in direction...

Here is my rough directions -


1. with wheel removed undo the lock ring in the middle of the shock, through the spring. Either use Cspanner or flat head screwdriver and hammer to loosen. Measure size of spring and distance between top of spring and central perch so you know what distance you have to start with and can check you are making progress!

2. Keep spring tight! in fact add some more preload to it. This stops the potential for the shock to wind itself up and therefore reduce overall suspension travel. For example if the spring is 15cm at rest you should wind it up to at least 14.5cm

3. Using some grips or strong hands and gloves reach through the spring and wind the central part of the shock either in or out to extend or shorten the shock. This is quite tricky but should be possible. You may need to clean the threads a little with some WD and a brush.

4. Every time you make some progress you should tighten the spring again to keep it pushing the shock apart...

5. Once you have adjusted enough, lock off middle lock ring, tightening with hammer and screwdriver again (or something more suitable, but make sure its tight)... then adjust spring tension to correct amount of preload (maybe none) and tighten spring perches...


Quite easy and quick to do once you get going and figure out the wierdness of this design...


Thanks for all help and advice, Happy new Year!

 

[C&S Evo7]

ok, so just to conclude this mission - the car is now slightly raised, no rubbing and ride quality is back to normal!!!

I found that it is possible to adjust height of this type of coilover while on the car but would be easier to remove or at least remove the bottom bolt and unwind the lower cup that way... the main thing is to keep the spring tight so it pushes the shock apart and makes sure the distance changes without the shock eating up suspension travel.


Anyway, for anyone else wanting to do this, I could not find any clear information or diagrams anywhere... HSD were quick to respond but quite unclear in direction...


1. with wheel removed undo the lock ring in the middle of the shock, through the spring. Either use Cspanner or flat head screwdriver and hammer to loosen. Measure size of spring and distance between top of spring and central perch/lower bolt...

2. Keep spring tight! in fact add some more preload to it. this stops the potential for the shock to wind itself up and therefore reduce overall suspension travel.

3. Using some grips or strong hands and gloves reach through the spring and wind the central part of the shock either in or out to extend or shorten the shock.

4. Every time you make some progress you should tighten the spring again to keep it pushing the shock apart...

5. Once you have adjusted enough, lock off middle lock ring, tightening with hammer and screwdriver again... then adjust spring tension to correct amount of preload (maybe none) and tighten spring perches...


Quite easy and quick to do once you get going and figure out the wierdness of this design...


Thanks for all help and advice, Happy new Year!

if thats the best they can do i would never even consider using that brand again, they should be able to tell you exactly what preload , and what does this even mean -- Measure size of spring and distance between top of spring and central perch/lower bolt... ????

im sure if you ask Jerrick these same questiins about meister coilovers you will get proper answers with drawings etc, getting a response like this .

and unless an absolute emergency never use a hammer and screwdriver to tighten a locking collar, thats really bad practice , screwdrivers are for doing up screws, thats it, use appropriate tools for the job.

 

[Kevin85]

Lol. HSD, oh dear.

 

[badeshi]

HAHA no no that was my helpful instructions!

I just wanted to add some explanation of what I did in case anyone else ends up trying it and runs out of info as I did, I was trying to be brief
I will try to clarify slightly....

HSD instructions were even less clear!

 

[MeisterR]

HAHA no no that was my helpful instructions!

I just wanted to add some explanation of what I did in case anyone else ends up trying it and runs out of info as I did, I was trying to be brief
I will try to clarify slightly....

HSD instructions were even less clear!

As a trader I really shouldn't say this.

But when I saw your previous post, I thought you done well working that out.
Then I saw you said HSD instruction was even less clear and I just LOL.

Jerrick