RBC v RRC inlet manifolds - the difference and what you would go for

carl hammond

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Not too sure what the diff is apart from the RRC I believe is the oem I take for the FD2 and maybe harder to fit as it‘s bigger

If they are both internally 70mm Then the difference will be minor, however the RRC I believe is a newer design so poss a better flow

Personally For the cost of either over the oem DC5 I let I‘ve never seen the point and £ Spent for gains is imo a waste, get more by means of gains as a whole (not numbers on paper) through better parts and chassis/tyre improvements and seat time

Imo of course :)
 

24Lemons

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176
Thanks. That's what I was thinking, 70mm is 70mm.

I agree regarding value for money but this would be in addition to money spent on suspension, tyres etc.

I wouldn't mind KPro and finding a little bit more mid-range, so you might as well throw one of these on at the same time 😂
 

skengdR

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302
I went with the RRC , I think it gives better midrange / driveability.

I did read that article too before deciding what to go with.

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Mebz

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skengdR said:
I went with the RRC , I think it gives better midrange / driveability.

I did read that article too before deciding what to go with.

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Was it a straight fit or do you have to reroute stuff?
 

wocka

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1,085
24Lemons said:
Does anyone know the difference between the Tegiwa 70mm RBC and the Tegiwa 70mm RRC?

I know the RRC is the externally bigger manifold, but 70mm is 70mm?
RRC has longer and wider runners than the RBC, better midrange and slightly more peak power

Best for the money is definitely RBC

Unless you already have or plan to fit a 70mm throttle body, I would go 64mm RRC or RBC over a 70mm RBC as you won‘t benefit at all.

When they say 64mm or 70mm it‘s just the inlet side has been ported to 70mm, the internals are not touched

Fitting wise, make sure you get the cut one as the RBC and RRC do not fit the k20a without part of the manifold cut off.

They fit on just like oem but you need to extend the air assist valve (or blank it) loop the coolant throttle body hose or extend them

For both manifolds you will need an adaptor plate, the RBC and RRC are different so make sure you buy the correct one. Also you need a map sensor blank


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skengdR

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Mebz said:
Was it a straight fit or do you have to reroute stuff?
Straight fit more or less , just a tighter fit than the oem prc manifold .

Wocka has more or less answered all your questions , feel free to pm me and I can help you out if you need it.



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wocka

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skengdR said:
Straight fit more or less , just a tighter fit than the oem prc manifold .

Wocka has more or less answered all your questions , feel free to pm me and I can help you out if you need it.



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RRC friend


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Mebz

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skengdR said:
Straight fit more or less , just a tighter fit than the oem prc manifold .

Wocka has more or less answered all your questions , feel free to pm me and I can help you out if you need it.



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Good to know. Not that I have any plans of removing the itb's.....
 

wocka

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Mebz said:
Good to know. Not that I have any plans of removing the itb's.....
Also thinking of ITB‘s and vtec noise ..... I went from Skunk2 ultra to 64mm RRC and it sounds so much better, like ALOT better!!! So not only do manifolds vary in power differences, they all sound different too


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24Lemons

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wocka said:
Also thinking of ITB‘s and vtec noise ..... I went from Skunk2 ultra to 64mm RRC and it sounds so much better, like ALOT better!!! So not only do manifolds vary in power differences, they all sound different too


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I have read somewhere in the past that ITB's can be difficult to set up, and can result in running issues. Is this the case?
 

Mebz

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24Lemons said:
I have read somewhere in the past that ITB's can be difficult to set up, and can result in running issues. Is this the case?
I've heard the same.

So far though, they have been great.

If the car has been sat doing nothing for a week or two, on first start up, idle revs fall low but after about 15 - 20 seconds it's fine. Driving around it's perfect.

Only other thing I notice is the fact that the accelerator pedal is a bit stiffer. I'm guessing this is down to the fact you've got 4 butterflies to move as opposed to one.

Been fitted by grinspeed and mapped by EFI parts, zero complaints, been spot on.
 

carl hammond

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Mebz said:
I've heard the same.

So far though, they have been great.

If the car has been sat doing nothing for a week or two, on first start up, idle revs fall low but after about 15 - 20 seconds it's fine. Driving around it's perfect.

Only other thing I notice is the fact that the accelerator pedal is a bit stiffer. I'm guessing this is down to the fact you've got 4 butterflies to move as opposed to one.

Been fitted by grinspeed and mapped by EFI parts, zero complaints, been spot on.
Do you know your attic and drive by db levels at all mate as I‘ve always wanted tb‘s but can‘t risk not being 100% track friendly :-(
 

Mebz

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Not sure of my drive by but static at croft it was 89db. That was with me hitting the limiter as well.
 

carl hammond

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Mebz said:
Not sure of my drive by but static at croft it was 89db. That was with me hitting the limiter as well.
Was that limiter at high revs or limited by launch control (on k100 I worked out holding the clutch down you can bypass launch control to rev it for static test up to 6500 where they want it)
 

Mebz

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carl hammond said:
Was that limiter at high revs or limited by launch control (on k100 I worked out holding the clutch down you can bypass launch control to rev it for static test up to 6500 where they want it)
Launch control, I hate that term in the honda world, is it really launch control.... sorry rant over.

My limiter is set at 5400
 

carl hammond

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Mebz said:
Launch control, I hate that term in the honda world, is it really launch control.... sorry rant over.

My limiter is set at 5400
Same but that is what it‘s called on the map as it‘s the limiter in place to prevent over reving when launching unfortunately (same on all cars that have maps similar lol) :)
 

skengdR

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Ive had a k100 or kpro since owning the car and never tried it , is it worth a try ?

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carl hammond

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skengdR said:
Ive had a k100 or kpro since owning the car and never tried it , is it worth a try ?

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Tried what? Launching? I‘ve never done it and never will as no need lol. I only know about it as I had to override it for the static sound test at brands
 
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