Rear arch panel

Cjhdc5

Active Member
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67
Kellsled said:
Will last a year if that and you will see it coming back, only way to get rid of rust is to cut it out, sanding down and using rust killer is a temporary fix. A lot of bigger body shops can't be bothered with the work so it's an easy way for them to make a few quid on you. If you want to keep the car get them cut out and get the body shop who is doing it to take plenty of photos. I learnt the hard way with this type of thing
Surely if it ground to the bare metal and treated it can't come back. Moisture will not be able to get at it. And if that is the case does everyone on here just have the metal cut out every time?


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MilanoChris

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5,649
I know when I was looking at getting my old DC2 sorted, every decent bodyshop I visited insisted on cutting the metal out and welding in new stuff. They also said it's a **** of a job, hence to get it done properly is not cheap.
 

Cjhdc5

Active Member
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67
So would this go for a few of the guys who have stripped the front end and used por15 or similar then. They might as well if cut it and got a new one in


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Kellsled

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285
The rust is in the panel and when the rear arches rust it usually starts from the inside. Surface rust is different, the likes of the underside or behind bumpers is able to be treated. If you just get it rubbed down and "rust killer" on it it will come back 99.9% of the time. If you want to keep the car and want it done properly get it cut out and done properly
 

carl hammond

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3,741
The rust is in the panel and when the rear arches rust it usually starts from the inside. Surface rust is different, the likes of the underside or behind bumpers is able to be treated. If you just get it rubbed down and "rust killer" on it it will come back 99.9% of the time. If you want to keep the car and want it done properly get it cut out and done properly
I was going to ask a similar question as I have a stone chip on the roof that has started to have the brown rust colour and I took it to TGM and Will said that he will have to get the roof back to bare metal, treat it and then repaint the roof (which is what I am going to have done), I assume this is also like surface rust as its only on the surface of the metal where the paints chipped?

With regards to arches this comes form within as said (which is a bit worse and harder to deal with) :-(
 

Kellsled

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285
carl hammond said:
I was going to ask a similar question as I have a stone chip on the roof that has started to have the brown rust colour and I took it to TGM and Will said that he will have to get the roof back to bare metal, treat it and then repaint the roof (which is what I am going to have done), I assume this is also like surface rust as its only on the surface of the metal where the paints chipped?

With regards to arches this comes form within as said (which is a bit worse and harder to deal with) :-(
If it's just brown and no bubbling you might get away with a Dremel and take the surface rust away, and cover it with a touch up, obv a full roof spray would be best option but I'd cover it up to protect it from starting into proper rust and not just surface. I hand a mb4 Civic few years ago and it had a couple of scabs on the rear arches, I took the metal right down and used krust, few months later was coming threw again, only proper way to get rid of it is to cut it out and replace it. It's the reason I bought a fresh import, don't have them issues and i went to extreme lengths to make sure I'll never have to worry about cutting out panels
 

carl hammond

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3,741
If it's just brown and no bubbling you might get away with a Dremel and take the surface rust away, and cover it with a touch up, obv a full roof spray would be best option but I'd cover it up to protect it from starting into proper rust and not just surface. I hand a mb4 Civic few years ago and it had a couple of scabs on the rear arches, I took the metal right down and used krust, few months later was coming threw again, only proper way to get rid of it is to cut it out and replace it. It's the reason I bought a fresh import, don't have them issues and i went to extreme lengths to make sure I'll never have to worry about cutting out panels
Hi mate TGM Sport are doing it all with a complete roof repaint, no cutting corners at all to ensure it's done for life so to speak (being done in May)
 

Cjhdc5

Active Member
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67
And if cutting out the arches is the only true option, getting a hold of arches won't be easy. That's without viewing the quality too.

Say once they are in what is the best way of making sure it does not come back.

What have people done in the past? And how is it holding up.





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MissMyDC2

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703
I had parts of my arch done and some deep rust right at the bottom quarter. I had the rust cut out and new metal put in, if your beater is worth his salt he can make the arches up from stock.

Just to make sure everything was taken back to metal, surface rust treated, then the new metal treated. Then it was painted then a rubber overcoat on the lip to help stones bounce and pain over that.

If you are any where near Chester/Wirral I can recommend a body shop with eye waveringly cheap prices and top class work.
 

MilanoChris

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5,649
That's exactly what I had done on my DC2. It was all cut out and replaced with new metal that the guy made up. Couldn't spot the difference after it was finished, except of course no rust.
 

MissMyDC2

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Chris. said:
That's exactly what I had done on my DC2. It was all cut out and replaced with new metal that the guy made up. Couldn't spot the difference after it was finished, except of course no rust.
I popped in a few times as the guy was doing the work. Its a real art form proper metal beating, fascinating to watch.
 

Kellsled

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285
Cjhdc5 said:
And if cutting out the arches is the only true option, getting a hold of arches won't be easy. That's without viewing the quality too.
Say once they are in what is the best way of making sure it does not come back.
What have people done in the past? And how is it holding up.
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You can buy replacement quarters brand new from Honda but there not cheap. Obviously the best option but as said any body man worth his salt makes them up from scratch. Make sure get plenty of pictures of work done, I had a very well known body man were I live do my Jordan and I bought replacement arches and he butchered the whole car. Stuck the new arches over the old. But if your car is sealed properly from the beginning it won't rust. Properly undersealed is only way, bumpers,skirts,wings etc off and all sealed and it won't rust
 

YENRAV

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Messages
297
I'm facing this nightmare at the moment. As ever I wish I had taken prevention instead of cure. Owed this car for 8/9 years now.

Taken rear plastics out and had a good look. Inner arches do look unscathed bar 1 area on passenger arch, maybe 100mm long, and drivers side floor under the foam in speaker hole.

Outer arch above tires (not visible unless you get your head in) looks poor. I have around 2 inch rust band around each inner arch. Looks light though.

Outer visible lips have slight edge rust and orange stains creeping towards arch lip.

I'm going down the wire drill attachments and POR15 route. Then blow in each arch.

🤕😥
 

GIBLETS

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311
Wow I didn't really realise they were this bad!

I undersealed mine back end of last summer (on import) using around 8L of Bilt Hamber products so it's had a good dose.

What would you guys use on the inner quarters?

I pulled the trim out of the back of mine, removed the sound deadening and binned it as it looked like a moisture trap (Foam blocks) and gave the inner quarters and arches a think coat of dynax S50.

Due to do the inners of the doors when the weather picks up so will use something different on them if a better product exists...
 

hondamad2204

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3,832
Dynax is fine for that. :) ive used it on mine too, gets in all the little hard to reach places, and is great at what it does
 

spooke

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Jimmer said:
Dynax is fine for that. :) ive used it on mine too, gets in all the little hard to reach places, and is great at what it does
Curious to know how much you coated exactly and did you do any kind of prep beforehand?

I think in the summer I'm going to POR15 under my bumpers, arches inner lip and perhaps sideskirts. I already have some sort of waxoyl on the underside.
 

GIBLETS

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311
I was shocked as to how many holes a DC5 has along the chassis seams, stuff was dripping out everywhere when I did the cavitys and inner arches, not surprised they rust if the salt water from the gritted roads gets inside!

I did behind the bumpers with Dynax S50 too on Bilt Hambers recommendation, they said it should last at least 10 years before needing inspecting and a possible touch up. The Por15 would be a pig to remove in future.
 

hondamad2204

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3,832
spooke said:
Curious to know how much you coated exactly and did you do any kind of prep beforehand?

I think in the summer I'm going to POR15 under my bumpers, arches inner lip and perhaps sideskirts. I already have some sort of waxoyl on the underside.
No real prep needed, i removed the rear speakers and boot plastics, and hoovered out any excess dirt. I was lucky I didn't have any surface rust etc inside so I fired the cavity with dynax stuff. It comes with a long flexible hose so I soaked inside. Haha and like Giblets said, was dripping out all around the wheel archers in between thebtwo layers and under the sideskirts below the speakers. When the rear bumper was off i also shot it inside the chassis legs and any other holes I could find. Used a fair amount and one tin still has enough in. Also sprayed a surface layer across the seems behind the rear bumper just because really. Lol and another good thing is that it doesn't clog up like cheaper alternatives, ie. you can store it, and re use it when ever you like. I found the 3m stuff and other equivalents get about half way through and the nozzle blocks and gove up hope or you loose all pressure so one ise is all.... Had none of that with the dynax s50. :)

Por is good and done right you shouldn't "need" to take it off.

Heres a pic of the inside of my arch, pretty clean which was lucky :)

 
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