Shifting Problem on Track

[hamks18psi]

I'm pretty sure they're all like that, as I said I've done 2nd to 5th a few times, you'll soon get used to it. What does your clutch pedal feel like, soft and smooth? It might be worth checking the pedal movement to the RSX workshop manual and changing the clutch fluid to see if that helps. I still 100% recommend that K-Tuned Shifter spring and pivot ball, made a huge difference to the sloppyness.

One thing you can try is rev matching your downshifts (there are plenty of guides on YouTube), even if it's just a small blip of the throttle - it may be a temporary fix for you.

Yes, rev match is really required no matter gearbox/shifter/clutch are good or not.
Would check the clutch in more detail. I just found the bite point is low (lower than half of the height). However, when start up the car from old, the first bite point is more than half, then second or sub sequence depress on the lcutch, the bite point is 1.5 inch (or feel like before the mid way).

 

[hamks18psi]

The resistance to go into gear could also be due to needing a rebleed, clutch pedal biting point adjustment or potentially a new clutch.
I used to struggle to get into gear at high revs but adjusted the clutch pedal master cylinder rod, to effectively raise the biting point and fully disengage the clutch.
My issue was that the biting point had gone too low so the pedal fully depressed did not fully disengage the clutch.

I have quickly checked my clutch's bite point, it is not high, I would say it is just before the half way.
I think if I can adjust the rod further out, which give the clutch (or old clutch or dying clutch) a better chance fully disengage during the shift in high rpm.

How low your clutch's bite point before and after your adjustment? Do you mind sharing as for my reference? Thanks!

 

[hamks18psi]

I have checked the clutch pedal adjustment in manual. It said "The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear".
In my poor English, I believe "self-" implies DIY, rather than automatic.

The clutch pedal disengagement height is about 115mm (4.53in), but I have checked visually using left foot and also right foot to depress the clutch pedal and release.
My disengagement point is lower than the manual's specification. I have not used any tool to measure it yet but I can tell my disengagement height is in between 3-4 inch.

I would adjust it later.
I have experienced lot of issue in Mitsubishi Eclipse in US many years ag, which is all about the shit clutch, fragile transmission, weak master rod, etc.
With EP3 ownership in UK, never have any issue like this on track with my similar lack-of-skill abuse.
Just a bit disappointed 1st time about this since I own DC5 since two months ago.

 

[Kevin85]

Self adjusting implies it doesn't need manual adjusting. I'm not sure what mechanism it uses though, sometimes they can get stuck or need manual adjusting, so it's definitely worth investigating.

I'm having a similar problem with getting into second while going down the box, I think it's a linkage issue but I haven't investigated yet. I'm going to look for excessive play in anything before I start guessing and throwing parts at it.

 

[hamks18psi]

The RSX manual can be for reference but they are not 100% the same to our JDM DC5.
So far I have bled the clutch and found the old one are dirty in the bottom of reservoir, after flushing and bleeding, I feel better but the bite point is similar.
Then I adjust the pushrod further out, and now my biting point is about 1inch higher than before , so I call it half way now for my biting point.

It should help my fast shift but slow foot or slow shift fast foot, especially when 2nd to 3rd gear.

Ordered some mtec spring, and also K-tune billet arm (with spring and pivot ball).

Hope it helps in next track event.

 

[spooke]

The RSX manual can be for reference but they are not 100% the same to our JDM DC5.
So far I have bled the clutch and found the old one are dirty in the bottom of reservoir, after flushing and bleeding, I feel better but the bite point is similar.
Then I adjust the pushrod further out, and now my biting point is about 1inch higher than before , so I call it half way now for my biting point.

It should help my fast shift but slow foot or slow shift fast foot, especially when 2nd to 3rd gear.

Ordered some mtec spring, and also K-tune billet arm (with spring and pivot ball).

Hope it helps in next track event.

That's good to hear, maybe I should look at adjusting mine - I already have new fluid though. I think you'll notice a big difference

 

[hamks18psi]

That's good to hear, maybe I should look at adjusting mine - I already have new fluid though. I think you'll notice a big difference

The new fluid made me feel solid but lighter when depress the clutch, it does not make obvious change on bite point.
It is the master cylinder pushrod adjustment!!! I have just tested tonight, Woa!! It is really good that help the bite point in half way (not too low, not too high) now.
Clutch can get old and wear out (my ca is 2001, today is 2016!!), so making rod and pedal adjustment is essential, especially for the people (me) who cannot shift quick AND consistent on track.

Before I have read lot of forum about the adjustment, some people said "not sure, not convinced it helps". But I am not buying this car for say hi and good bye around the town, so the way I drive on track no matter my skill is rubbish or not, pushing the limit does happen. After this adjustment, I feel much more confidence now.

Would test more on high rev shift after the K-tune billet arm and 5th gear lock arrive and get installed.

 

[hamks18psi]

Finally I have spent time and money to understand and tried fixing the shifting issue.
1. Clutch Fluid Re-bleed
2. Clutch Master Cylinder Pushrod Adjustment & White grease
3. Clutch Slave Cylinder rod and boot re-grease
4. K-tuned Billet Arm and 5th gear lockout
5. MTEC Industries Shift Race Springs

Now I tested on road which is much better. The key is to change the shifting style. But with the above mod, it gives me a solid feeling, and so far there is no grinding in 3rd gear but only can find out in next track day.

Thanks to all members' previous advice.
Here is the video

https://youtu.be/2X0mpPBdu34

 

[George657]

I'm still not convinced on your 2nd to 3rd, it looks like your almost going back to first.

 

[hamks18psi]

Hi dear members, after all the mod related to the shifting, now I have confirmed that all works like a champ!
Tested intensively yesterday in the track, no more mis-shift or gear grinding!!

I suggest any DC5 new owners who take the car to the track please focus on all these mod I have done. Otherwise, half of fun would be lost!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o34PxMzlqk&feature=youtu.be

 

[hamks18psi]

Hi all, I just came back to review my old post.

My DC5 still can shift smooth and solid after couple track days in last 3 years.

No grinding or synchro issue I have found at all.

Perfect mod above all.

Hope my case help other DC5 owners.