jay.dee
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Unfortunately not.Mark_teg said:This!
Sounds like good news! Maybe they aren't interference engines after all
http://www.itr-dc5.com/forum/index.php?/topic/41203-when-a-chain-snaps/?p=407600
When a chain snaps!!
- Thread starter wj51fut
- Start date
http://www.itr-dc5.com/forum/index.php?/topic/41203-when-a-chain-snaps/?p=407600
hondamad2204
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You have just linked to the same thread that you have just commented on bud.jay.dee said:
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1K ? you cant do a 2.2 toda stroker for 1k
If there is no valve damage/piston damage you will have been incredibly lucky, theres no point during the cycle when all valves are shut, with the crank still rotating and cams not the chances of contact are high
If there is no valve damage/piston damage you will have been incredibly lucky, theres no point during the cycle when all valves are shut, with the crank still rotating and cams not the chances of contact are high
wj51fut
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You had to go and say it didn't you Simon!! 😡😡C&S Evo7 said:
Turns out that after Tom had put a chain on and done a compression test, two were down by half. So he is taking the engine out and stripping the head down to see what needs doing. It's a strong engine so not worth chucking in the bin.
He did ask if I was planning on putting anything else in whilst the engine is out. To be honest I cannot think of anything! So if anyone has any suggestions (not throttle bodies, JRSC etc) then that would help. Not sure if anything else really needs to be added. I quite like the engine as it is (when it turns over!)
Current list of parts going on are;
Spoon rocker cover done by Spooner restorations
Hybrid Racing fuel rail
Hybrid Racing fuel line
Hybrid Racing gear linkages (another set!)
Spoon Sports rigid collars
Mugen front compliance bushings
Chain
Tensioner
Guides
Millers nano drive oil
Possibly a Clockwise motion baffled sump
All gaskets bolts etc will be replaced with OEM items. I could go down the RBC/70mm throttle body route but I need a K100 or KPRO as I haven't got one and that's getting into silly money atm.
Might get the subframe powder coated if they can whip it out in time and get the bushes and collars done then too.
I was supposed to be enjoying the car this summer but it seems it will have to be next summer 😔.
Planning another Europe trip next year in June.
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If the head is off get it port patched to your after market manifolds. I had this done of my old stock K20 and it made 260 so gained pretty much 10hp over other units with same bolt ons. I've got a new engine now so don't have this anymore but would do again if had the chance!
wj51fut
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I will let you know mate but I think Tom said he has a few heads lying around the garage he could use.Teegwa said:Let me know if the heads done so I know to sell this one or not mate
Whilst it's open definitely cams, valvetrain upgrade, porting,ECU.....
Wait sorry did it again
Gordon
If I had the money I would build a strong engine with forged internals high lift cams etc.
Shortstuff
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If engine is out. How old is clutch?
Rom
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I'm surprised TGM thought it might be ok.
Now you just have to hope the pistons are Ok. When the valves hit them, they can gouge the crowns. Hopefully they are reusable.
There is little I'd bother doing u less you fancy one of the following.
A full oem rebuild. Just to freshen the engine up. New rings, shells, rebuild head with oem valves etc.
Get the bottom end lightend and balanced. Though I'm unsure what gains could be had, as I'm sure it's already better than most engines.
This will have all rods and pistons weighed and balanced to be as close to each other as possible. The crank and flywheel will be lightend, the clutch cover will be balanced with it all.
The idea is weight reduction of rotating mass. Reduces effort and drag, so engine wastes less power, so more the wheels.
Everything is balanced, so engine runs smoother, less vibration of parts, so more power is transferred rather than wasted in unwanted movement.
The engine will rev up faster, and just be smoother. I dint this on my 205, and I'll do it again if I ever have my engine apart, it was noticeable.
Upgrade the internals. But little point unless you are planning forced induction. Then we're talking valve, springs, pistons, depending on future plans.
Forget about rbc and tb for now. That's stuff you can easily fit yourself. And doesn't 'need' to be done just because the heads off.
Engine doesn't need to come out to do the repairs Tom.
Can change the head, pistons, rods etc in situ.
As long as the crank stays in. Otherwise you need box off.
Crazylegs, on most engines, if the chain or belt snaps. The valves and pistons will hit. It's the timing of the engine that stops this during operation. With nothing connecting the cams to the crank, they both continue to rotate under momentum, until they stop, or hit each other.
Now you just have to hope the pistons are Ok. When the valves hit them, they can gouge the crowns. Hopefully they are reusable.
There is little I'd bother doing u less you fancy one of the following.
A full oem rebuild. Just to freshen the engine up. New rings, shells, rebuild head with oem valves etc.
Get the bottom end lightend and balanced. Though I'm unsure what gains could be had, as I'm sure it's already better than most engines.
This will have all rods and pistons weighed and balanced to be as close to each other as possible. The crank and flywheel will be lightend, the clutch cover will be balanced with it all.
The idea is weight reduction of rotating mass. Reduces effort and drag, so engine wastes less power, so more the wheels.
Everything is balanced, so engine runs smoother, less vibration of parts, so more power is transferred rather than wasted in unwanted movement.
The engine will rev up faster, and just be smoother. I dint this on my 205, and I'll do it again if I ever have my engine apart, it was noticeable.
Upgrade the internals. But little point unless you are planning forced induction. Then we're talking valve, springs, pistons, depending on future plans.
Forget about rbc and tb for now. That's stuff you can easily fit yourself. And doesn't 'need' to be done just because the heads off.
Engine doesn't need to come out to do the repairs Tom.
Can change the head, pistons, rods etc in situ.
As long as the crank stays in. Otherwise you need box off.
Crazylegs, on most engines, if the chain or belt snaps. The valves and pistons will hit. It's the timing of the engine that stops this during operation. With nothing connecting the cams to the crank, they both continue to rotate under momentum, until they stop, or hit each other.
wj51fut
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Thanks Chris.
Tom said he has a full set of OEM valves that he was going to put into his race engine. Had them since February. Looks like I will be having them he said!! Lol
Might as well get the valve seals done too to make sure they are nice and tight and no oil passes.
If the pistons are knackered too then I will get a full refresh of piston rings etc. The bottom end shells were replaced a little while ago.
Balancing the engine would be nice. Sad but I remember this from Gran Turismo! It will make a difference yes and that's why I done the port polishing.
Hopefully it will just be head work that needs doing. Sump will come off and a clockwise motion baffle will go in. Would be rude not to.
Tom said he has a full set of OEM valves that he was going to put into his race engine. Had them since February. Looks like I will be having them he said!! Lol
Might as well get the valve seals done too to make sure they are nice and tight and no oil passes.
If the pistons are knackered too then I will get a full refresh of piston rings etc. The bottom end shells were replaced a little while ago.
Balancing the engine would be nice. Sad but I remember this from Gran Turismo! It will make a difference yes and that's why I done the port polishing.
Hopefully it will just be head work that needs doing. Sump will come off and a clockwise motion baffle will go in. Would be rude not to.