Recent content by pulpmelon_r

Be aware, without extra compression or capacity, bigger cams will simply move your power band over to the right. A stage 1 / Drop in, is all you will really need on a stock motor.

FYI I am Troll proof... 'untrollable' if you will.

Well I took my brand new bone stock mazda to TDI a few years ago. Book figure was 263hp (US Imperial horsepower @ the crank) for this vehicle After 3 runs It saw 264hp on their dyno. Just sayin

PM'd regarding knock sensitivity tables

OK I'm just going to assume its a NASP daily use road car, you have no plans for racing and that you are using pump fuel for this reason. In which case 12.5:1 static CR

Why? What is your goal? Static compression alone wont tell you if you will see pre-ignition detonation on a given octane fuel.

You will have to limit VTC advance in software in most cases. The camshaft vendor should be able to tell you how much clearance you have on an OEM piston with their profile. If they cant, buy from someone who can!

You need to check the wiring as that is easily damaged with inlet manifold removal as well as the TPS voltages at WOT and idle. http://hondaswap.com/~pills/obd1guide.html

Are you running a stock or aftermarket throttle?

The best 60fts I've seen FWD on street tyres are in the 2.1 sec bracket, with drag radials you would hope to drop a few tenths and be aiming for 1.8 - 1.9. On drag slicks 1.5 second 60's and broken drive shafts are the order of the day.

^ Looks like around 15 pounds of boost would be most efficient for that setup

A stock EP3 makes ~190hp on that dyno dynamics, 230-235 with full bolt-ons and a tune. A stock EP3 makes ~200 at TDI north, 240-245 with full bolt-ons and a tune. Which one is faster?

For a track car go straight to some proper motor mounts:

Agreed Might even make more power on 95-97 ron UK fuel at 11:1CR

I get a bit twitchy at the times from make shift drag strips with the removable timing gear. Unless its an FIA / MSA approved track its best not to compare times too closely.