This is how I do mine:
This is by no means the only way to clean your engine bay, however it will give you a good idea of what to clean, what to protect and some little tips along the way.
You will need:
[*:1ia11h2b]10mm spanner or socket set (the latter is easier and quicker).
[*:1ia11h2b]Can of GUNK engine degreaser. I have had best results with the GUNK foam rather than the spray (Both the GUNK foam and the spray come in very similar cans, so look at the bottom of the can to see which one it is).
[*:1ia11h2b]Cling film
[*:1ia11h2b]Kitchen Roll
[*:1ia11h2b]Car wash shampoo
[*:1ia11h2b]Bucket
[*:1ia11h2b]Wash mit/sponge
[*:1ia11h2b]Drying towel/old rags/T-shirts (these will get dirty, so don't use your best stuff)
[*:1ia11h2b]Small soft bristle brush (an old tooth brush works well)
[*:1ia11h2b]Hose pipe with a sprinkler gun attachment
Optional:
[*:1ia11h2b]Paint sealant
[*:1ia11h2b]Car wax
[*:1ia11h2b]Black rubber restorer/protector
[*:1ia11h2b]Quick detailing spray
Time to complete How To:
30mins - 1 hour
Method:
NOTE:
This guide has been performed on a Honda Integra Type R (DC5), however the engine bay for the Honda Civic Type R (EP3) is almost identical. The following information/pitures will be accurate for both models. For other models/makes, you can apply the same techniques although the engine bay will look different.
First remove the spark plug cover (four 10mm bolts) and manifold cover (two 10mm bolts): This will give you better access to the rocker cover and manifold which are two main areas where dirt/grease collects.
It is also a wise idea to remove andy resevoir socks to avoid them getting mucky.
With the engine exposed and ready to clean, the first job is to make the electrical connections around the engine bay waterproof. Cling film works well for this. It may be benifical to pre cut the cling film prior to wrapping the electrical components. A postcard sized piece of cling film will be sufficient to fully wrap an electrical connection and ensure it's protected from water. There are several points around the engine bay that need to be protected from water:
[*:1ia11h2b]Plug on the induction hose from the airbox to manifold
[*:1ia11h2b]Two plugs at the end or the induction hose (usually hidden by manifold cover)
[*:1ia11h2b]Two plugs between rocker cover and airbox/induction hose
[*:1ia11h2b]Fuel rail plugs
[*:1ia11h2b]Spark plug connectors (these are easiest to wrap by unplugging the connector and then sliding the cling film underneath, reconnecting then wrapping around)
Next is the fun bit. Take one can of Gunk foam spray...
...and completely cover the engine bay. If you're doing this in a garage, make sure you have adequate ventilation.
If your bay is particularly greasy, the Gunk will fizzle away and break down the grease almost instantly. Then rinse away the Gunk/grease and assess your progress. Chances are you will not have cleaned everything sufficiently the first time around, so re apply the GUNK where necessary. This enables you to concentrate on the really grimy/fiddly bits. These are usually located in difficult to reach areas, so a toothbrush can be useful for this. The tooth brush will also enable you to work the gunk into stubborn grease although through previoius experience, hardly any agitation will be needed. The Gunk foam really is quality stuff for this task.
Area's where dirt/grease commonly build up are in the nooks and cranny's of the manifold and around the dipstick/oil cap and bolts that hold the rocker cover on. These are also areas where water pools later on.
All the other dirty but non greasey areas including the underside of the bonnet (it's easy to forget), can be cleaned with a normal car shampoo/detergent and a wash mit or sponge.
The instructions on the can of Gunk state to leave the foam to work for 5 minutes to be fully effective. You can take this oppurtunity so I took the opportunity to have a well earned break:
After your cuppa, It is just a case of hosing down the engine bay and drying all the left over water. An old microfibre towel or rag/T-shirt is good for this. For an even better shine and to prevent water marks from appearing, you can also some apply some quick detailer to the areas whilst drying. For this guide, Megauirs last touch quick detailer was used.
If after you've dried the bulk of the engine bay you realise you've missed small areas, you can use a detergent and a damp wash mit/sponge to clean them without soaking the entire engine bay again. Meguiars All Pupose Cleaner was used in this guide.
As mentioned earlier, there are some areas in the engine bay where water likes to collect. Kitchen roll is ideal for this is it's absorbant and can be compacted into small areas:
Have a good look around the engine bay for water pooling. As earlier stated, areas of the rocker cover and manifold are likely candidates as well as the battery tray. The latter can be particularly fiddly, however it should empty of water if you take the car for a spirited drive if your ethusiasm has lulled by this point
.
Optional tasks:
If you have a trim/rubber restorer, apply some to an old rag/kitchen roll and go over all of your rubber/silicone pipes. You can also use this on your OEM inlet pipe. This will brighten up the dull and fader rubber restoring it to a nearly new condition. Also if you have any aftermarket carbon fibre parts in your engine bay such as a intake kit of manifold/spark plug cover, you can apply some sealant and/or wax to give them a really nice shine.
For this guide, Meguirs gold class trim detailer, Jetseal 109 sealant and Dodo juice purple haze wax were used.
The results
Beofre
After
Before
After
Before
After
Next it's just a case of replacing the manifold and spark plug covers to complete the job. The end result should look something like this:
...and some more gratuitous clean shots
