*Looky, looky at my new *-Geometry/tracking settings

[SCOTTIECTR]

OK, I don't want the tyre place to mess my settings up again, so if I take in Page 27 of the RSX manual in is that they same settings we should use for the DC5R?

I need something that they can look at easily to set it up.

thanks,

Scott

 

[User]

Yeah the JDM will have those same settings.

 

[SCOTTIECTR]

Thanks.

 

[dan the man]

post them up then?? please!!

dan :?

 

[mikegsi]

i think these settings hould be made a sticky, they're always getting asked for, mods if you would pls? :wink:

 

[Evs]

Which settings? Do you mean these...

Front caster angle: 1 degree 30 min +/- 1 degree
Front camber angle: 0 degree 0 min +/- 45 mins
Rear camber angle: -0 degree 45 min +/- 45 mins
Front toe-in: 0 +/- 3mm
Rear toe-in: 2 (+2)(1)mm
Turning angle: Inward: 35 degree 0 min
Outward: 28 degree 0 min (reference)
Front and rear wheel axial run-out: 0 - 0.7mm (service limit: 2.0mm)
Front and rear wheel radial run-out: 0 - 0.7mm (service limit: 1.5mm)

 

[C&S Evo7]

Scott,
The Honda settings are not the same as those posted here from the RSX info.
I took the info from the computer at the alignment shop, they had the Integra Type R DC5 listed.
They were:
Front:
Total Toe: +0.0mm +/-1.9mm
Half Toe : +0.0mm, +/-0.9mm
Camber : -.50deg , +/-1deg
caster :+1.17deg, +/- 1.0deg
Rear:
total toe : +1.9mm, -0.9mm,+1.9mm
half toe : +0.9mm, -.5mm, +09mm
camber : -.75deg, -1deg, +.75deg.


if you want a fast road setup as per TGM try:
Have this at the mo and works very well as above except:

Front neg camber : .50-.75 deg
Front track:0.0mm
rear neg camber :.75-1 deg
track rear : +.9mm per side

where are you going to have it done?

 

[Evs]

Having posted the RSX settings above, I would agree with Simon.

I had mine done by TDI and it's closer to Simon's suggestions than the RSX settings. I don't actually know what all the settings are, but it has about 1.5deg negative camber on the front, about 1deg negative on the rear. I *think* (but am not absolutely sure) that it has a small amount of toe-in at the front, and a small amount of toe-out at the rear.

The handling is absolutely superb imho. If you're going up there for a K-Pro and map sometime anyway then you could just ask them to do it at the same time. Cost about £100 IIRC. Or you could go to Tom, get him to fit your exhaust parts and mounts and do this then. Personally I would rather go to someone who knows the DC5 and knows what works, than just write the settings down and take it to a 'generic' place. Just my 2p.

 

[SCOTTIECTR]

Thanks for all the help guys, but I'm now more confused :?

Basically when I got the car lowered I took it to Protyre in Bristol to get the 4 wheel alignment checked, they said it was out and adjusted accordingly, these are the settings I ended up with:

FRONT Camber: Left. -0.20
Right. -0.24

Toe: Left. 0.2
Right. 0.2
Total. 0.4

REAR Camber: Left. -0.58
Right. -1.14

Toe: Left. 1.0
Right. 0.8
Total. 1.8

However when I looked on the sheet I realised these are the DC2 settings and I'm booked in to them again on Friday, not sure if the settings are anything to do with it but both of my passenger side tyres are shot whereas the drivers side are fine, so I'm getting 2 new but putting both the new on the front and don't want to end up rining any more tyres.

Help please :xhelp:

 

[dobber]

Thanks for all the help guys, but I'm now more confused :?

Basically when I got the car lowered I took it to Protyre in Bristol to get the 4 wheel alignment checked, they said it was out and adjusted accordingly, these are the settings I ended up with:

FRONT Camber: Left. -0.20
Right. -0.24

Toe: Left. 0.2
Right. 0.2
Total. 0.4

REAR Camber: Left. -0.58
Right. -1.14

Toe: Left. 1.0
Right. 0.8
Total. 1.8

However when I looked on the sheet I realised these are the DC2 settings and I'm booked in to them again on Friday, not sure if the settings are anything to do with it but both of my passenger side tyres are shot whereas the drivers side are fine, so I'm getting 2 new but putting both the new on the front and don't want to end up rining any more tyres.

Help please :xhelp:

Front Datum

LH RH Tolerance
Total toe 0.0mm +- 1.9mm

half toe 0.0mm 0.0mm +- 0.9mm

camber -0.5º -0.5º +- 1.0º

caster +1.17º +1.17º +- 1.0º

pin angle +13.35º +13.35º +- 0.5º



rear

total toe 1.9mm -0.9mm to +1.9mm

half toe 0.9mm 0.9mm -0.5mm to +0.9mm

camber -0.75º -0.75º -1.0º to +0.75º

 

[Evs]

Not sure why you've got more camber and toe on the rear left - have they run out of adjustment? If so then you might need rear camber adjusters - not uncommon when you've lowered the car :idea:

As for tyre wear on one side - the above will contribute but it doesn't explain all of it. Two questions:

1. Do you go round right handers faster than left (eg on roundabouts)?
2. I hate to ask this, but are you sure the chassis is straight?

 

[User]

When they say "left and "right" I presume "left" means the nearside of the car?

If thats right, the tyres should scrub a little off the inside of the nearside tyre, and scrub even on the offside. So, if there's evidence of inside scrub on the passenger side - that'll make sense.

If however there's evidence of scrub on the outside of the passenger side - that'll mean Scott has a liking for blasting around Islands the naughty boy :lol:

This of course is all subject to tyre pressures being even.

Evs - is that right? More negative camber will sit the car onto the inner part of the tyre?

 

[mikegsi]

im confused (doesnt take much!!) by all these facts, figures and thingies...
can we have a sticky which includes the noraml dc5 (not rsx) setup and also the fast road setup as prescribed by tom?

i would certainly find this useful as i will be getting mine done very soon

 

[SCOTTIECTR]

Two questions:

1. Do you go round right handers faster than left (eg on roundabouts)?
2. I hate to ask this, but are you sure the chassis is straight?

1. Probably as I can see curbs clearer (as for roundabouts aren't they all right handers unless you go the wrong way around them? :shock:

2. I don't know, I hope so, and if not I don't want to know :lol:

 

[SCOTTIECTR]

Oh, and I've only got the Spoon progessives so wouldn't have thought I'd need camber adjusters?

 

[SCOTTIECTR]

If however there's evidence of scrub on the outside of the passenger side - that'll mean Scott has a liking for blasting around Islands the naughty boy :lol: Think it is more on the outside but not significantly so almost even but the drivers side are still more than legal

[/b]

 

[SCOTTIECTR]

im confused (doesnt take much!!) by all these facts, figures and thingies...
can we have a sticky which includes the noraml dc5 (not rsx) setup and also the fast road setup as prescribed by tom?

i would certainly find this useful as i will be getting mine done very soon

Basically I need spoon feeding, so could do with figures to give Protyre. If I go for the fast road set-up what are the pros and cons over standard?

 

[Evs]

Evs - is that right? More negative camber will sit the car onto the inner part of the tyre?

Exactly xthumbup

1. Probably as I can see curbs clearer (as for roundabouts aren't they all right handers unless you go the wrong way around them? :shock:

Why not try a gentler speed around the island and then build speed on the exit – slow in, fast out?

Oh, and I've only got the Spoon progessives so wouldn't have thought I'd need camber adjusters?

Well your rear camber is different one side to the other, so I’d ask why this is. I don’t see why they’d set it up this way on purpose (unless you asked them for an 'oval' setup :lol: ). As stated above, you may not have enough 'adjustment' (ie ‘slop’ in the assembly) to get the camber right. Mine has coilovers but is only lowered about the same amount as a set of lowering springs, and it needed camber adjusters to get it right.

 

[User]

Fast road set-up will scrub the tyres more. More Toe-in will scrub the tyres. Plus side - it'll feel pin sharp and it'll tend towards oversteer when on the power. Another downside - you have to be extra carefull when lifting off the gas after powering through a bend.

From the geo settings you posted - I can understand if the nearside rear was scrubbing off too quickly, because of the extra toe-in. But for the front to go as well makes me think you're a bit Island happy :lol:

You could be cheeky and ask Paul @ System-R to give you the settings he would use on a DC5.

 

[SCOTTIECTR]

Why not try a gentler speed around the island and then build speed on the exit – slow in, fast out? I like going sideways, it's fun

Oh, and I've only got the Spoon progessives so wouldn't have thought I'd need camber adjusters?

Well your rear camber is different one side to the other, so I’d ask why this is. I don’t see why they’d set it up this way on purpose (unless you asked them for an 'oval' setup :lol: ). As stated above, you may not have enough 'adjustment' (ie ‘slop’ in the assembly) to get the camber right. Mine has coilovers but is only lowered about the same amount as a set of lowering springs, and it needed camber adjusters to get it right.

No idea, they said things were out and they adjusted them?