What's latest on tyres all?

ekchris139

Advanced Member
Messages
105
Crazylegs said:
Are the AD08R good in the wet?
They are ok is the wet. Standing water can throw you a bit but nothing major.

You wouldnt be able to drive a car with AD08R's on it anywhere near as fast compared to the same car with MPS4 tyres in the rain.

I have done a full track day in torrential rain on AD08R's and never went off. At the end of the day you drive within the limits of the tyre with the conditions you are given. For me the feedback that the AD08R's give will let you know when you are approaching the limit so if you go beyond that dont be surprised if they bite back.
 

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
Messages
5,224
Thanks guys, some good feedback there.

I think when the times comes to changing the tyres, I'll probably go for the AD08R based on the feedback off here.
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
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3,741
Regret selling the Elise for many reasons!
On a not so tyre related matter what Elise did you have as I am toying with selling the DC5 to get an Exige S at the moment (the gf's idea) IF I can find one that is as they are pretty rare, but there was one at one of our track sessions and she loved it.
 

Mike9000

Advanced Member
Messages
242
carl hammond said:
On a not so tyre related matter what Elise did you have as I am toying with selling the DC5 to get an Exige S at the moment (the gf's idea) IF I can find one that is as they are pretty rare, but there was one at one of our track sessions and she loved it.
2005 111S in storm titanium with the 156bhp K series. Great cars, so much fun. Getting expensive these days which is a shame.
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
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3,741
2005 111S in storm titanium with the 156bhp K series. Great cars, so much fun. Getting expensive these days which is a shame.
Yeah I thought prices had risen a bit as we have been looking at S2 Exige's and the S2 Exige S and they seem to be going up in value rapidly and the S version is very hard to find...

How did you find it compared to the DC2 and DC5 mate ?
 

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
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5,224
carl hammond said:
On a not so tyre related matter what Elise did you have as I am toying with selling the DC5 to get an Exige S at the moment (the gf's idea) IF I can find one that is as they are pretty rare, but there was one at one of our track sessions and she loved it.
Do it mate.

One of my favourite cars, they're amazing Carl go for it I say. One in Orange with black wheels.

Stunning.
 

BataLeon

Advanced Member
Messages
185
I just changed my tyres, thought about a semi-slick but I drive in all conditions plus having some a decent drive in the rain can be a bit of fun.

Ended up with these, rate them so far, road noise has reduced and grip level is good in all conditions from what I can tell so far.

Vredestein Ultrac Satin - 215/45 R17 91V
 

cameron1589

Active Member
Messages
89
I have AD08R's all round and have been impressed with them. Good on the road in the dry, ok in the wet and great on track. I got two new ones put on the front 1 week before a 1000 mile trip to the Nurburgring, included in that was 6 laps around the ring and i've returned back with 6.4mm of tread left on them. Brand new i think there are around 8mm? Great all rounder!
 

Mike9000

Advanced Member
Messages
242
carl hammond said:
How did you find it compared to the DC2 and DC5 mate ?
Similar ethos really. I used mine as a daily car for a while (had a hard top) and whilst great got a bit too much so bought a Panda as well. Dc*‘s feel quite like normal cars in comparison as in the Elise you sit really low . The positive about the DC2 and 5 is mainly having a bit more protection around you. When on the motorway I was always wary of lorries.
 

Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
622
Hey all. I'm still trying to get to the bottom of my handling issues in my suspension thread. Thought I'd move it here for now as this morning I noticed that my tyres a 225, us 215 not the standard? And will this effect the pull on bad B roads?

Also as a daily doing around 16k a year, on said bad B roads, is there any tyre recommendations if there's a concencous that changing them will help? Currently they are 225/45 Avon ZV7 on what I believe to be standard wheels. I k know there will be a compromise somewhere, but ideally I'd like good all season that last at least a year.

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carl hammond

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3,741
Crackfox said:
Hey all. I'm still trying to get to the bottom of my handling issues in my suspension thread. Thought I'd move it here for now as this morning I noticed that my tyres a 225, us 215 not the standard? And will this effect the pull on bad B roads?

Also as a daily doing around 16k a year, on said bad B roads, is there any tyre recommendations if there's a concencous that changing them will help? Currently they are 225/45 Avon ZV7 on what I believe to be standard wheels. I k know there will be a compromise somewhere, but ideally I'd like good all season that last at least a year.

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Hi mate what are the handling issues you are encountering, in brief can you describe it?

For reference I use 215/45/17 on the road and 225/45/17 on track at present and aim to use 225/45/17 for all use going forward when my 215's need replacing.

I can notice quite a difference on the road when switching back to and from the sizes, more the 215 is lighter etc. Although I don't use the car much on the road and my tyres are not really comparable so it may sway my views/findings slightly I do feel that the 225's are more prone to tramlining etc. Not used the 225's since my last trackday but I deff feel a massive difference when switching so I assume on B roads you would also find a difference and notice it.

Maybe worth seeing if anyone local to you would let you go for a spin on their 215's t get a feel for it, I would gladly let you but not sure if you have a go on mine but I don't know if you're local or not.
 

Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
622
Carl, I'm Lincolnshire. My previous thread is the alignment one below this. Basically is was floaty/wobbly between 50-60. Took it to Area for alignment and now its moved to 70+. Still think it feels more skittish that it should though, and pulls me around on bumpy uneven roads.

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Crazylegs

Advanced Member
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5,224
The skittish feel and pulling is a trait of these cars sadly. I'm in the same boat and it really doesn't make the Integra a pleasant car to drive. It's difficult to eradicate as they're built for smooth roads and race tracks, the diff doesn't help either as it will be pulling and following the contours of the road.
 

carl hammond

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3,741
Carl, I'm Lincolnshire. My previous thread is the alignment one below this. Basically is was floaty/wobbly between 50-60. Took it to Area for alignment and now its moved to 70+. Still think it feels more skittish that it should though, and pulls me around on bumpy uneven roads.

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Is this all the time or only under braking?

See I know the DC2 on OEM suspension of a combo like I currently have is amazing, whereas on coilovers they can be very skittish as they are so light and the weight distribution can be unsettled very easily. I personally like the car to be like that as I find it fun to drive and force lift off over steer etc when I can on track, but as mines not used on the road much I could imagine it being very worrying at times as the road surfaces are so poor and unpredictable (part the reason I honestly never drive hard on the road anymore)...

I think the only way to avoid the issues would be to have a shock/spring combo or lessen any geo to bring it more OEM and not aggressive (if you have an aggressive one with camber etc).

If I was local I would have loved to have had a go in it back to back vs mine as I find them spot on as do I the brakes etc, it's all down to conditions, driving style and so on
 

carl hammond

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The skittish feel and pulling is a trait of these cars sadly. I'm in the same boat and it really doesn't make the Integra a pleasant car to drive. It's difficult to eradicate as they're built for smooth roads and race tracks, the diff doesn't help either as it will be pulling and following the contours of the road.
Very true, and the aggressive geo people go for (aka the FRSU, hate that name for it lol) wont help, the more aggressive and camber you run the worse the car will be on the roads, it's something you have to consider when making changes as you can't have a track car feel that wil be nice on the road.

What works on a smooth circuit will never work on a UK B road full of wet, dirt, pot holes and so on. If you want it nice and fast on the road you're better off with spring and shock combo, but if you want a track car then go for good quality coilovers (not the cheap Taiwanese made stuff), but be ready to accept it will be pants on the road).

This is part the reason I am slowly transforming my car into a track/race car which I plan to compete in one day if I can afford too.
 

Crackfox

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622
Fair points. What settings do you class as aggressive geo? I think I'm only 1.5 on the front camber

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carl hammond

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Fair points. What settings do you class as aggressive geo? I think I'm only 1.5 on the front camber

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Personally that's the max I would do on the road as anything more and you'll start shredding tyres on the roads (depending how good they are in your area). Mre camber etc means much better turn in but on the road you'll be tramlining everywhere and it will feel at times un-driveable.

My Mugen damper and spoon spring combo is with OEM arms and bolts so only getting the camber the suspension 40mm drop gives me (so not a lot, I believe its 0.8 or something) and it's amazing on the road and was very very good on track, BUT on track I maxed out and started killing my front left tyre so have to run a more aggressive setup.

The guy doing my geo and corning weighting said he'd recommend -1.3 or -1.5 MAX if the car needs to be used on the road and even then it would be skittish in certain circumstances and on certain roads.

It all depends on you and your driving style along with your wants and needs from the car. I don't use mine on the road a lot so can justify it being un-comfy (not sure the GF will like it when she drives it though) but I like the car to be a handful whereas most don't.

It's so hard to call what to do as every change (big or little) will cost to be done which is annoying s it may not make the car feel how you want it too. Initially I wanted my DC5 to feel like my DC2 which I was successful in doing with my suspension combo, now however I want to track it more and more I need to make changes to make the car better on track which on the flipside will be worse on the road. Did area say everything was spot on ? no sign's of a worn bush or anything?
 

Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
622
They said it's in mint condition. If o had the money and off road time I'd try and find some standard or mugen shocks, just feels weird when the monsters on there are less than a year old.

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carl hammond

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They said it's in unblemished condition. If o had the money and off road time I'd try and find some standard or mugen shocks, just feels weird when the monsters on there are less than a year old.

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I have heard hit and miss things about Meister coilovers but the likes of them, BC and Yellowspeed maybe good out the box but I question their quality and lifespan. When speaking to TGM recently I asked whether I should sell my Bilsteins for a diff setup whilst deciding on which Nitron or Aragosta's to go for later down the line and it was explained to me that cost of Bilstein's per corner VS's the previously mentioned. The Bilsteins are 3 times more per corner to manufacture so to have such lower costs there must be a hit on quality surely?

Taking this into account maybe there is something wrong with a shock? have they been checked as if under a year old under warranty you'd be entitled to a replacement I guess, or maybe speak to the manufacturer as I know the guy who goes the Meister posts is very helpful and maybe they can help tell you the best settings you'd want for your use mate
 

ekchris139

Advanced Member
Messages
105
Has anyone tried running Michelin Cup 2 tyres on their cars yet.

Might replace the AD08R with them once need replacing
 
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