Help me justify £4.5k engine build

[LeeH]

Stop being a pussy and get that plastic out!

 

[C&S Evo7]

You will need alot more than Internals to make 270+ hp.
The power comes from how much air and fuel can be pumped through.
big cc and big cams with sypporting exhaust and fuel system are where the power comes from which could double the build cost,

While having a balanced engine is good for pickup the STD motor is pretty good,
I am assuming it is a modified oil pump not an oem replacement. As that is a weakish link in the k20

 

[VT-Doo]

Personally I wouldn't bother with sleeving the block for an extra 100cc. If it were a K24 block however...

Also, I wouldn't spend all that money to run OEM cams. As nice as the list is it's not great IMO. Don't get me wrong, it will be reliable and strong but as for making more power I think your figures are a little optimistic.

Higher compression requires a higher fuel octane. If you go too high you'll find your tuner might have to retard the ignition therefore not meeting the full potential of the engine. Building a "race" engine is one thing, running it everyday is another.


And then there's breaking the engine in...

 

[C&S Evo7]

To add to what Ian said, about the octane rating, i had an interesting conversation with a respected tuner recently about the difference between a k20A and an A2, and the gains with kpro.

i was asking because you can get almost as much hp out of an A2 but they have a lower compression ratio, the outcome was we are going to do the same test but with some decent fuel that can make the most out of the higher compression to see if the gains are better (which they should be) because of course we are hindered here with the fuel we can get compared to what is available in japan.

so having any higher than std is pointless unless you can run on race fuel. (and as the tuner said it may be better to actually reduce the compression if building a fresh engine)

 

[Stoo]

K24 w/JRSC for £4k!!!

 

[dave c]

K24 w/JRSC for £4k!!!

What he said... or just an EP3k20 for cheapness then bolt the JRSC on there.

Gonna be bet part of 300horses and supper linear power delivery

 

[dave c]

so having any higher than std is pointless unless you can run on race fuel. (and as the tuner said it may be better to actually reduce the compression if building a fresh engine)

I bet on 100+ RON fuel the EP3 and the DC5 are much further appart straight line performance wise when you factor in the different compression ratios.


Thats a really good point actually, lowering the CR to suit the available fuel is a good idea but personally i'd go a step further.


I'd buy a boost specific pre-build, low compression ratio block from the states with a SC or Turbo kit and get it all shipped over here. Fit it and get it mapped for 95 Ron fuel. (Still an octane or two higher than the p155 they get in the states)

You will have much more power than any N/A combination and with a boost built block you can in theory up the hp even more for much less £££ once the initial purchase of a good solid engine and a good turbo/SC kit are done.

simply wind up the boost or swap the turbo charger, or if SC'd get a smaller pulley

my 2p

 

[coyote_dc5]

wish you never asked :xlol:

 

[pulpmelon_r]

Personally I wouldn't bother with sleeving the block for an extra 100cc. If it were a K24 block however...

Also, I wouldn't spend all that money to run OEM cams. As nice as the list is it's not great IMO. Don't get me wrong, it will be reliable and strong but as for making more power I think your figures are a little optimistic.

Higher compression requires a higher fuel octane. If you go too high you'll find your tuner might have to retard the ignition therefore not meeting the full potential of the engine. Building a "race" engine is one thing, running it everyday is another.


And then there's breaking the engine in...

Agree with this!

Also why dont you just get an 0.5mm overbore on your current block and run over sized OEM RRC pistons from the FD2 for more CR?? Or is the sleave cracked?

Forged pistons might be a bit 'slappy' for a DD

 

[tricker_luke]

The cylinder is too damaged to get away with an overbore.

I think I'm going to go the sleeved route, and have also been having talks about a cam combo, since this is obviously the ideal time to do all the mods I had thought about.

So to summarise, it will be a 2.2l with cams, and current mods Spoon system, RBC intake manifold, Apexi air filter and KPro. Also need to consider whether I need a 70mm throttle body? The RBC is already ported out to a full 70mm.

I want to stay N/A, and want to keep the reliable high revs as opposed to going K24. This setup will be more than enough power for what I need anyway.

 

[haitch]

Always like to read about a good N/A build over FI anyday, depends on the use of the finished article to justify the price? What are the cam package choices? Is the flywheel CWM's own design?

 

[Vtec Accord]

If the intake manifold is bored to 70mm its pretty obvious to me that a 70mm throttle body would be needed.

 

[tricker_luke]

Always like to read about a good N/A build over FI anyday, depends on the use of the finished article to justify the price? What are the cam package choices? Is the flywheel CWM's own design?

Finished product will be mainly daily driver, and I hope to get into trackdays. I had a track booked a week after the engine popped!

Not sure about cam packages, but I think CWM produce their own hollow billet cams, and can machine any profile depending on the use. He recommended I go for a mild type so it's ok for daily driving.

Not 100% sure if it's their actual produced flywheel, or a machined version. But a lot of detail is on the website http://www.clockwisemotion.co.uk

I'm also going to be looking at the 70mm throttle body, and some 725cc Injector Dynamics injectors since I'm currently about 85% duty on my current build

 

[Stoo]

725cc will be too much I reckon.... :S

i have 650cc RCs in mine bud

 

[tricker_luke]

Still early days as to which injectors I will get. I've been recommended the dynamics by my tuner, and looking at the detail they seem to be fine even for standard power.

Just comes down to the cost, I think the 725s will be about £390 a set

 

[parksy340]

im running 450s and mine is built and more than enough :xcheers:

 

[tricker_luke]

I will have to look into it. 725 is the minimum available on the dynamics range but still comes at a cost.
Though either way I can't complain about skimping out on a now £6k build haha!

 

[Vtec Accord]

Have a look around for parts esp in the US.

I did a fully forged engine build a couple of years back and saved hundreds of pounds by getting 90% of the parts from the US.

I got my injectors / forged rods from US Ebay

& my forged pistons from raceeng.com (these guys really know their stuff)


For example £390 a set of injectors you could get those from the US for £250 tops, loads of savings to be made if you look around bud.

 

[eXceed]

Can get some RC1000cc on ebay for about £200, think you need to do a LOT more research before taking on this build as it's already looking like you're getting fleeced for money!

 

[kingston]

I will have to look into it. 725 is the minimum available on the dynamics range but still comes at a cost.
Though either way I can't complain about skimping out on a now £6k build haha!

At 6k, buy another car, strip out required bits and sell the rest on ebay - will be cheaper