Alignment

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
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5,224
Crackfox said:
Just had a good chat with Wheels in motion. They said they'd have walked out if anyone tried to do their alignment with string nowadays.

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Sorry buddy but they're full of sh*t. Talking absolute rubbish there but if you want to use them that's your decision but don't be expecting an improvement.

As I've said before, these cars are not easy to setup. It certainly doesn't sound like your suspension is what you need so I'd suggest selling it and get something softer that's better built and rides better.

I'd go for Sam's Bilsteins if you can sell the Meisters then get it back to Area Motorsport, TGM or Grinspeed. As has already been said several times already, the string method is the proper way to do it, it's old school but it does a true measure in terms of alignment from people that have worked on Honda chassis' for numerous years many in Motorsport. Stevie at Grinspeed is an ex M Sport World Rally Team Mechanic, Tom at TGM runs a race team racing DC5's. Rob at Area runs and builds cars for the Civic Cup.
 

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
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5,224
Tyres COULD be playing a factor as well but it sounds like you can't afford a new set. If you can, get some Yokohama AD08R as they are light, stiff and turn in incredibly well. Maybe get a set for the front just for now and see if it improves things. I know how frustrating it is for you as I'm in a similar position myself with mine. Tyres have helped a little but I've had to get a different suspension, thankfully a set of Mugen Showa came up for me for a good price so I'll know in a few weeks time what difference this has made to the car.
 

ollieh17

Advanced Member
Messages
307
TBH, i'd take the car back to Area. If i've had an alignment done and not been happy taken it back and had it sorted for free! Advantage of using hunter system. Be mental to throw money at a new set of coilovers because they say 'Blistein' on and are 'made in US'. Miesters are known to be great for UK roads, at the end of the day the DC5 isnt that much of a highly strung complicated chassis people would have you believe.
 

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
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5,224
ollieh17 said:
TBH, i'd take the car back to Area. If i've had an alignment done and not been happy taken it back and had it sorted for free! Advantage of using hunter system. Be mental to throw money at a new set of coilovers because they say 'Blistein' on and are 'made in US'. Miesters are known to be great for UK roads, at the end of the day the DC5 isnt that much of a highly strung complicated chassis people would have you believe.
Disagree mate, it's a very hard chassis to get right and I've ran coilovers and standard dampers and they've always felt lardy, bouncy, crashy and move all over the place. You must live on super smooth roads because that's about the only time the DC5 feels 'ok' and I say ok only as that's at a push. Feel free to take mine for a drive Ollie, you'll soon change your mind.
 

Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
622
Crazylegs said:
Tyres COULD be playing a factor as well but it sounds like you can't afford a new set. If you can, get some Yokohama AD08R as they are light, stiff and turn in incredibly well. Maybe get a set for the front just for now and see if it improves things. I know how frustrating it is for you as I'm in a similar position myself with mine. Tyres have helped a little but I've had to get a different suspension, thankfully a set of Mugen Showa came up for me for a good price so I'll know in a few weeks time what difference this has made to the car.
Not really to do with being able to afford it, its whether I want to throw money at a guess, as all this is at the minute. I wouldn't buy AD08s doing 16k a year, most of which is wet.

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Crazylegs

Advanced Member
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5,224
Fair enough, try Michelin Pilot Sport 4 instead maybe. Case of ruling things out or like Ollie said, take it back to Area.
 

Crackfox

Advanced Member
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622
Crazylegs said:
Fair enough, try Michelin Pilot Sport 4 instead maybe. Case of ruling things out or like Ollie said, take it back to Area.
Not much point in going back to Area to be honest. I've spoken to them since and they said "No idea then" I'm off tomorrow so I'll probably take it to the local tyre place and get them to align it, not much to loose at the minute.
 

SamDC5

Advanced Member
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1,433
What is your damping set to? Have you tried setting it to full soft?

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Crackfox

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622
Anyone got any idea what my Meisters are worth if i was thinking of swapping them for something else?
 

SamDC5

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1,433
I may have my Bilstein B14's for sale if you're interested. £700 with brand new Honda OE top mounts and bearings. They've only done 4K miles and not even a year old.


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ollieh17

Advanced Member
Messages
307
Don't rush into selling them mate, there seems to be something more to this than just 'stiff coilovers'. Ive driven a 850kg car with spring rates well above what they should be on rough roads and never felt as bad as you have described.
 

Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
622
SamDC5 said:
I may have my Bilstein B14's for sale if you're interested. £700 with brand new Honda OE top mounts and bearings. They've only done 4K miles and not even a year old.


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Whats the difference between the coilovers and the B14 shocks?
 

Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
622
ollieh17 said:
Don't rush into selling them mate, there seems to be something more to this than just 'stiff coilovers'. Ive driven a 850kg car with spring rates well above what they should be on rough roads and never felt as bad as you have described.
Just at my wits end with it now. Went to get my alignment checked again today and the guy said it's in tolerance and when I explained the issue he said it's the coil overs and he has the same issue on his track car.
 

SamDC5

Advanced Member
Messages
1,433
Crackfox said:
Whats the difference between the coilovers and the B14 shocks?
The Bilstein B14's technically are a coilover. They just don't have adjustable top mounts or damping. This means they go on the car and they're set up from Bilstein. They have height adjustability, they're a premium 'road' coilover. Perfect for fast road cars like mine was. I've used mine on the road for 2 years and they're a cracking setup. I'm not just trying to sell you them for the sake of it as you can feel free to look through my thread on here that's why I bought them. They're a good fit and forget setup.

I'm going for a track setup now that's why these are for sale. The only thing you would need to fit are EP3 track rod ends which you can get for cheap.

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Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
622
SamDC5 said:
The Bilstein B14's technically are a coilover. They just don't have adjustable top mounts or damping. This means they go on the car and they're set up from Bilstein. They have height adjustability, they're a premium 'road' coilover. Perfect for fast road cars like mine was.

I'm going for a track setup now that's why these are for sale. The only thing you would need to fit are EP3 track rod ends which you can get for cheap.

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My misunderstanding, I thought there was 2 types. Would the track rod ends not already be the same ones on mine? Do FL make a difference?

Theres some Showas on eBay for 650, adn i must admit i was tempted lastnight. My wife will kill me if I spend the cash and it still isn't right though, which is my concern on both.
 

SamDC5

Advanced Member
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1,433
Crackfox said:
My misunderstanding, I thought there was 2 types. Would the track rod ends not already be the same ones on mine? Do FL make a difference?
There's B16 and B14. B16 have adjustable damping that's all.

The Bilstein coilovers are tailored for the EP chassis, so all that means is that you'll need EP3 track rod ends as they differ from DC5's due to the taper design.

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Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
622
SamDC5 said:
There's B16 and B14. B16 have adjustable damping that's all.

The Bilstein coilovers are tailored for the EP chassis, so all that means is that you'll need EP3 track rod ends as they differ from DC5's due to the taper design.

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My understanding was the Meister where for both DC5 and EP3 so though they might already be on.
 
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