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running 17x7.5 ET43 and 225/45 rubber. approx 30mm lowered. comments: Front looks funny without at least 2 degrees camber (I'm running 3 :) ) rear needs 2 degrees camber not to rub or you could roll the guards. rear wheels look a bit hot-rod style without an aftermarket kit. Other than...

I think it makes the injectors a bit quieter.. At least that is my experience.

It does depend on the tyre but you will probably need quite a lot of negative camber to prevent rubbing on the rear. I'd estimate about -1.5 degrees based upon my setup (225/45/17 on 17x7.5 ET43 -2 degrees rear camber). Lowering the suspension will naturally give you more camber than you need...

FYI that part is listed as being a replacement for the Civic Type R K20A2 (PRA computer) which uses a narrow band primary sensor. This isn't suitable for the dc5r which needs a wideband.

Instructions from the Ingalls site: http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/81250-81290.pdf

When I installed my header I had the same issue and ended up getting a mate to buy me the spanner and it was easy

it will be different as the type S uses a completely different header / cat setup.

might just be cheaper to get some more rails If you do get some others I recommend the Bride RO ones.

I am running 225/45 Yoko AD07 on a 7.5" rim myself and I wouldn't consider going back to 215/45. I say 225/45 is ideal if you have rims that are wider than the OEM 7" ones.

I think the current wheels look fine but it would look better lowered with them on. Not a fan of white on white myself.

GF210 were still quite comfy also.

I had GF210 and they were quite good. Eventually the std suspension got a bit tired so I went to a coilover.

re uploading your kal, kmanager will take care of everything. Any key setting that offers you the upload option will work fine. No post upload save is required. As discussed you really need to datalog and be sure you want try that kal file.

Sounds OEM if it has a heatshield. I took a look at the CTR ITR cams etc kal and it looked ok to me. I changed the ECU type to 3 and it then allowed the various settings such as lean protection to be set. It looked quite mild on the ignition side and suitable for a restricted exhaust setup. I...

No I don't think it's as simple as that. I think type 1 is the somthing else like the base rsx + other similar cars. Type 2 is the PRA Euro CTR non wideband. Don't use. Type 3 is at least PRB and probably PRC/PRD which all do the same basic functions. PRC and PRD just don't support all the...

My map has type 3 although RSX Type S maps have that also. I'd be interested to know if it should be any thing else. From what I can see CTR is type 2 so don't use that. I think type 3 is fine for PRC just don't enable the vtec pressure switch or the fuel tank pressure sensor.

Hondata K20a map is from a car with Injen Intake, Toda Header and Mugen Exhaust. It runs crazy rich on a standard car. I had an Injen and a 2.5" exhaust and it was still no where close. It frustated me that there was no exact map for a standard k20a but I guess it is from the USA. Now that I'm...

This is so common I knew what I was going to see before I opened the thread.. The general trick is to push the hose off rather than pulling it off although I'm sure there are times when it can still break.

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Mugen front strut brace made a much larger difference than I expected. Front A arm bushings are good also if a pain to fit.